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Mercury Villager (1997) P0305 and P0325 Codes: Causes, Fixes & Diagnostics for 155k-Mile Engine

Model: Mercury Villager Fault Code: P0305 Posted: 2008-07-23 23:05

Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum but have been researching similar issues. I own a 1997 Mercury Villager with approximately 155,000 miles and am currently experiencing two OBD2 trouble codes: P0305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire) and P0325 (Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction). In the past, a basic tune-up—replacing spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor—has resolved these issues every 18–24 months. However, this time, even after completing that maintenance, both codes persist. From my research, I understand that fuel injectors or intake manifold problems (such as gasket leaks or port plugging) could be contributing factors. My neighbor, a mechanic, suggested that a leaky injector might cause misfiring—something I hadn't heard before—but I’ve never had injector issues on any of my previous vehicles. I also read that the knock sensor in older Mercury Villagers (which is technically a Nissan Quest platform) is prone to failure. My question: Are P0305 and P0325 related? Could one code be causing or masking the other? Additionally, I’ve tested the knock sensor using the Haynes manual method—disconnecting the connector from the upper intake manifold, grounding one lead of a digital multimeter (DVM), setting it to AC volts, and tapping the intake with a hammer. The meter responded each time, suggesting functionality. However, initial resistance readings were as high as 35 megohms, which is far outside the expected range of 500–620 kΩ at 77°F. After cleaning the sensor’s mounting surface and retesting, the reading dropped to around 540 kΩ. I also performed a fuel pressure test and bleed-down test. The fuel pressure was within spec, but the bleed-down valve in the tank failed the test—indicating potential leaky injectors. Two of the six injectors tested out of range: one with 0.5 ohms (shorted), another at 34 ohms (out of normal 10–14 ohm range). I’ve also checked for vacuum leaks by spraying starting fluid on intake gaskets and hoses—no signs of a leak were found, though the rear section was not fully tested. The engine runs very roughly and is currently non-driveable. I plan to replace the upper intake manifold gasket, clean the EGR system (which wasn’t clogged but was cleaned anyway), and perform a full rebuild including spark plugs, wires, cap/rotor, fuel filter, PCV, and throttle body gaskets. I’m now considering whether to replace the knock sensor or simply fix the grounding issue. Based on my findings, I believe the misfire may stem from faulty injectors rather than a failing knock sensor—especially since both P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) and P0325 (knock sensor fault) appear to occur together. I’m sharing this experience as a cautionary note for others working on older Mercury Villagers, especially regarding the complexity of disassembling the upper intake manifold and potential corrosion at the knock sensor mounting point. Thanks to everyone who contributed advice—this forum helped me diagnose and resolve my issue step by step.

Related fault codes
P0305P0325
Comments (18)
Anonymous 2008-07-24 05:12

ant vaccum leaks?

Anonymous 2008-07-24 06:33

Are vacuum leaks a problem with the Villager? If so, where should I look? I'm aware of the Saturn SL series having vacuum leaks with the intake manifold, but that usually causes a high idle problem. Could a vacuum leak cause rough idling issues that I have?

Anonymous 2008-07-24 07:48

It's a good possibility on any vehicle 11 yrs old and those vans and engines had some intake gasket issues as well as ports plugging, etc!

Anonymous 2008-07-24 07:58

jeff compton wrote: It's a good possibility on any vehicle 11 yrs old and those vans and engines had some intake gasket issues as well as ports plugging, etc! What do you mean by "ports plugging"? Intake manifold ports? Also, is there a good way to test the knock sensor?

Anonymous 2008-07-24 17:09

Your knock sensor will not work anymore for sure ¡¡ Just buy an original new one.

Anonymous 2008-07-24 17:13

Ahh,, and also I was forgoting: The codes are not related, you have 2 different problems, also check the intake gaskets and ports as Jeff says.. could be leaking..

Anonymous 2008-07-24 18:27

some ford vans had a tsb explaining how the egr ports carbon up causing some cylinders to misfire etc, as well some had vaccum leaks from around the intake bolts, pcv hoses, plugged converter etc! The knock sensor is hard to test without at least a scan tool. Check the basics like the wiring from the senor to the pcm but it may just be time for a new one.

Anonymous 2008-07-25 06:36

jeff compton wrote: some ford vans had a tsb explaining how the egr ports carbon up causing some cylinders to misfire etc, as well some had vaccum leaks from around the intake bolts, pcv hoses, plugged converter etc! The knock sensor is hard to test without at least a scan tool. Check the basics like the wiring from the senor to the pcm but it may just be time for a new one. Duh... EGR port, wasn't thinking. I'll check that for build up. That could be a problem getting to it though. The knock sensor, according to the Haynes manual, says that this sensor can be tested. So I tried it last night, but I'm not sure if I did it correctly. Its simple, disconnect a connector on the left side of the upper intake manifold, probe a pin (according to Haynes), ground the other lead of the DVM, set the DVM to the lowest AC volts range, then tap the intake manifold with a hammer. Supposedly, the DVM should respond every time the hammer hits. I think I remember doing this 6 or 7 years ago, and it was OK at the time. But now, I'm either doing it wrong or this knock sensor is really bad. The Haynes manual isn't very clear as to which connector to back probe. Does anyone know if a resistance check is a valid test? If so, what values should I be measuring?

Anonymous 2008-07-25 18:21

Not the most accurate way because of the possibility of it going open as it heats up! On alot of vehicles after the work involved to access it just for checking and the wirinig up to it was good then I'd just replace it.

Anonymous 2008-07-25 19:59

helo The resistance of the knock sensor has to be 500-620 kohms at (77°F) But even though you should have these readings when measuring the sensor it doesn´t mean it is working properly. The best way is replacing it. Believe me, those knock sensors fail on millions of nissans (the sensors were faulty build) and the Villager is at the end a Nissan quest. Just buy a new one, just buy the original one (with the nissan dealer it is made in Japan others might not work exactly). Also how is your EGR doing ?? have you checked it ??

Anonymous 2008-07-28 07:31

fuel injection center wrote: helo The resistance of the knock sensor has to be 500-620 kohms at (77°F) But even though you should have these readings when measuring the sensor it doesn´t mean it is working properly. The best way is replacing it. Believe me, those knock sensors fail on millions of nissans (the sensors were faulty build) and the Villager is at the end a Nissan quest. Just buy a new one, just buy the original one (with the nissan dealer it is made in Japan others might not work exactly). Also how is your EGR doing ?? have you checked it ?? Sorry for the late reply, its been a busy weekend sending my kids off on their missions trips. Thanks for the resistance values, I'll check that tonight. Found the right connector for the knock sensor (KS) and was able to perform the test described in the Haynes manual (as stated in my prior post). This test suggests that my KS is good. But, I'm not a 100% convinced. This weekend I performed a fuel pressure test, and according to the Haynes manual, I may have a possible leaky injector. My neighbor (mechanic) says that a leaky injector could cause a misfire. I never heard this before, but I never had injector problems in the past, on any of my vehicles. I had plans to check the EGR, but time ran out. Did check for a vacuum leak by spraying engine starting fluid at the intake manifold gaskets, but the rear section may not have properly tested. Nothing suggested that I had a vacuum leak. Hoses all connected and look in good shape. Amazed at the number of hoses on this engine. The engine runs very rough, so at the moment we're unable to drive it. Picked up a 6mm hex socket so I can take off the intake manifold, but I'll check the EGR first. It's such a pain to get to the EGR on this Villager. Question, could leaky injectors cause a misfire?

Anonymous 2008-07-28 14:12

helo Yes, a malfunction of an injector can cause a missfire, could be your problem; but be sure the injector has a problem, because bad fuel pressure readings don´t mean necessary a injector is working bad. Keep posted

Anonymous 2008-07-28 14:48

fuel injection center wrote: helo Yes, a malfunction of an injector can cause a missfire, could be your problem; but be sure the injector has a problem, because bad fuel pressure readings don´t mean necessary a injector is working bad. Keep posted Actually, the fuel pressure and fuel regulator tested fine. It was the second half of the test that failed, which tests bleed down pressure for the injectors and bleed down valve in the fuel tank. The bleed down valve was within spec, but the fuel injector test was out of range. Which, indicates a leaky injector or injectors, according to the Haynes manual. I have never used the Haynes manual trouble shoot guide before to diagnose a problem like this, so my trust level is not very high at the moment, which is why I'm on this forum. Tonight I'll check the EGR and resistance of the KS. Hopefully I'll discover something there.

Anonymous 2008-08-07 12:19

Had my injectors cleaned & tested and two failed. I should have checked the resistance on these injectors. The #5 that I suspected was trouble ohmed out at 0.5 ohms, but I wasn't expecting #6 to ohm out at 34 ohms. Normal range is 10-14 ohms. Had to order them, should be here this Saturday. Mean while, I looked into the KS by checking the resistance while it was still install, buried underneath coolant pipes. I was getting something like 35M ohms on my Fluke 77 DVM. Compared the resistance at a local parts store, which was in the range of 500-620k ohms, so I ordered one at another store where I get a discount. Now that its ordered, I have to further disassemble this engine. Once out, I checked the resistance again, still high. I now tested it for knock by connecting both leads to the KS, place it on the garage floor, and then tap the metal section (bolt hole). I was able to see my meter react to every tap. Puzzled that it worked with 35M ohms of resistance, I tested the resistance again. It now reads 540k ohms. What gives? Only one pin is used on the connector, the second pin which is ground is also the metal section of the KS. Could there been corrosion between the block and KS? Could I have knock some sense into this KS when tapping it with the hammer? Should I use my old KS and save the $100+ for a new KS?

Anonymous 2008-08-11 08:00

Well, I finally completed this project. Replaced two injectors, six injector o-ring kits, KS, spark plugs & wires, cap & rotor, fuel filter, pcv and some miscellaneous coolant tubes. Also required was intake manifold gasket set, thermostat to block gasket, and throttle body gasket and a gallon of anti-freeze (not 50/50). With allot of shopping around, the cost was kept to under $500 which included a cheap torque wrench. The most difficult part of this job was removing and installing the upper intake manifold. Looking at the engine when its all together conceals all of the coolant tubes connected to the upper intake manifold, not to mention the vacuum lines and electrical connectors. And that that most of the work is done by feel and not by sight. The second most difficult task was adding anti-freeze and purging all the air out of the system, which was complicated with the rear heat system. More time consuming than anything else, just follow the Haynes manual. Readjusted the idle speed and timing and this engine is running better than I can remember. The only thing I'm not convinced about was replacing the KS. I think the sensor just wasn't making a good ground connection. Once I cleaned the ground surface, this sensor tested the same as the new one. But since I was able to get a new one for about $106, I replace it for peace of mind, that is until my VISA bill comes in. For an 11 year old vehicle and this being its first major repair, I guess I can't complain.

Anonymous 2008-08-11 13:52

But where the results ??? ¡¡¡ Did you resolve the failures.. Men.. you are just complaining about everything,, you are requesting advice and you are just doing everything instaed accepting the advice,, you still complaining about the Knock sensor,, (I tell you it most be dammaged,, and if you dont know how to check it ,, why you stil saying it won´t be bad ??? ) if you are saying knock sensor is good , then why are you asking professionals...

Anonymous 2008-08-11 15:10

fuel injection center wrote: But where the results ??? ¡¡¡ Did you resolve the failures.. Men.. you are just complaining about everything,, you are requesting advice and you are just doing everything instaed accepting the advice,, you still complaining about the Knock sensor,, (I tell you it most be dammaged,, and if you dont know how to check it ,, why you stil saying it won´t be bad ??? ) if you are saying knock sensor is good , then why are you asking professionals... Not sure what your problem is. This forum told me that resistance of the KS should to be about 500-625k ohms. That was a huge help to me, which force me to dig further into this engine. My struggle was with the disassemble of the upper intake manifold, which to me was over complicated to simply replace a fuel injector and a KS. I was trying to point out that a bad connection on the KS may have given me a high resistance reading of 30+ mega ohms. It appears that a good cleaning may have corrected that problem. If it wasn't for the fact that I received such a good deal on the parts, I may have reused the old KS, but the thought of taking that intake manifold off again forced me to play it safe. I also checked the EGR system per your advice and found that it was not clogged, but it made me clean it out anyway. I was just reporting on the troubles of working on this engine, not the support of this forum. I thought others with this engine might be warned about the difficulties of doing this job. I also thought it would be good for others to know about the possible corrosion problem on the KS. This appear to clean up easily and my tests suggest that it was working like normal after the cleaning. So, maybe, shotgunning it may not always be the answer just because P0325 is set. I like to analyze my problem and verify my work, its the engineer in me. Beside, the KS fault would ONLY come on when the P0305 fault was set. If the KS was truly at fault, then it would have been set by itself. For the last six years these two faults always where set together, which is the reason for me to question the fault. So please don't take this personal, I am thankful for this forums help and your advice. As I said before, and I will repeat, my Villager is running better than I can remember. So thanks again for all your help. Thanks

Anonymous 2013-04-17 17:57

Hi, saw you are having problem with a Mercury Villager, #5 Misfire. I had the same problem and tried all the expesive ideas. The real problem is water is dripping from a plastic rivet located just above #5 spark plug. For some reason the motor will not boil it away, just fix the leak and you will be OK. Mike M.