12 Ford Figo P0303 & P0267 Error: Misfire and Injector Circuit Low - Diagnosis and Solutions

concentrate on #3 cylinder injector circuit... is there 12v. is connector tight, corrosion free no bent pins or connectors... disconnect connector 1 wire will have 12v ? the other wire no voltage, open circuit , not grounded. FYI p0303 is a misfire - not just a spark issue could be spark , fuel, mechanical. p0460 - fuel level - any issues with the fuel gauge?

But there is a signal to the injector I've done the basic check with hearing the clicking through the screw driver, as I know if the signal weak the injector will not open at all, plus the car is usually smooth on idle, only when the ripples start hard sometime while am on the highway it might keep ripples on idle after I stop!! The injector's connectors is actually a rail which I need to disassemble the whole set to check, I would do it anyway if that's it. Your absolutely right about P0303, I was just giving brief descriptions. The fuel gauge is ok, I read the description for the Ford it says something about the EVAP sensor which it has to do with the issue I currently have since am sure the the fuel burning is not right "emissions sensor". Anyway that is a grey code which nothing require fix (sensor code).

confirm spark at #3. Inspecting #3 plug may yield a clue you need to check the wiring/circuit from #3 to PCM... The inj electrical connector is a place to start. They often fail to lock on to injector, the wires may have an intermittent. open. shorted to ground or shorted to voltage. Clicking does not confirm spray. Easier said than done - a DIYer trick is to swap inj to another cyl code either moves to new location or remains the same cylinder... confirms wiring or injector... https://www.obd-codes.com/p0267

"kev2" I will do check injector voltage and let u know with the result

I don't really know where to start, so I checked the injectors connector "rail" for any flaws, I checked even the injectors resistance, I checked the connector voltage "open circuit" same figures on each one of them around 4.3 (DCV), I checked the power signal on each connector when cranking the engine (1.6 DCV on each one), and finally I changed #3 injector location just in case. NOTHING changed at all, same thing. What else? Really lost. Could it be the throttle need to be cleaned? Does even the throttle have to do anything with that "what am I talking about"

KOEO unplug #3 inj - install a noid light - flashing, on steady, not flashing not on. OR without noid light BLUE wire what is voltage? GREEN wire is this wire grounded? is it showing voltage? Check continuity from inj to PCM terminal 44.

kev2 wrote: KOEO unplug #3 inj - install a noid light - flashing, on steady, not flashing not on. OR without noid light BLUE wire what is voltage? GREEN wire is this wire grounded? is it showing voltage? Check continuity from inj to PCM terminal 44. I don't have noid light, however, I checked the ground on the injecrot's connection it is grounded, and the hot side have the same voltage as the other 3 injectors, I cannot tell the wires color since the connectors on rail, the only thing left for me is the PCM from this point of view.

Inj unplugged KOEO 1 wire will have 12v that will be the BLUE wire the other then is the green wire, IT should NOT be grounded. If it is grounded either a wire issue or bad PCM. You will need to check Grn wire with PCM unplugged.

kev2 wrote: Inj unplugged KOEO 1 wire will have 12v that will be the BLUE wire the other then is the green wire, IT should NOT be grounded. If it is grounded either a wire issue or bad PCM. You will need to check Grn wire with PCM unplugged. The wires are hidden in the rail, but I can see the color from the end of the rail and the hot wire colored purple and the ground colored yellowesh with green line on it. Anyway am trying to figure the PCM location and how to unplug it.

Abuilyas wrote: I checked the connector voltage "open circuit" same figures on each one of them around 4.3 (DCV), I checked the power signal on each connector when cranking the engine (1.6 DCV on each one), and finally I changed #3 injector location just in case. On live side of injector you should get around 12 volts (battery voltage) as power comes from battery via ECM relay and fuse. Other wire should be switching signal, if plug is connected to injector then one pin should be permanent 12v (battery) other pin should be switching signal around 12v (battery, as injector connected) and should be switching to negative, very close to battery negative, say 0-0.2v. If injector disconnected then positive should be permanently 12v (battery) and other pin switching between no signal and negative 0-0.2v. From your reading vehicle should not run at all. Suspect ECM relay burnt out, dose supply power to injectors, EVAP, CMP, MAP and ECM. Have you swap injector #3 with other one? You can swap HT leads at ignition coil end port 1 to 4 and 2 to 3 as it's wasted spark system, at the same time coil pack give spark to 1 and 4 port then 2 and 3 port, so easily can be swapped over and see spark condition. That way you can find out coil pack or HT leads fault.

I have forgot to mention to check switching signal volt meter is too slow to respond. LED automotive probe will be preferred or any fast responding tool with high internal resistance. Low resistance like bulb can damage ECM.

atip wrote: On live side of injector you should get around 12 volts (battery voltage) as power comes from battery via ECM relay and fuse... I might be doing some of the electrical checks wrong, however the car run smooth without loosing any power till I reach 2500 rpm and 4th gear on speed around 60 mph start ripples with no actual obvious effect on the car power of I accelerate a bit more it goes away, and yes I did change the the injector location 2 times just to be sure, the problem I face is the the injector must be disconnected to check their ports, the connector are on rail. Anyway, new thing I found today, I removed the throttle and the MAP to clean them, I found some oil on the MAP and when I removed the throttle I looked inside and found it oily all over that area I have attached pic of that area, plus the throttle it self is not shut close all the way as u can see in the other picture!!! Is that normal "I don't really think so" and hopefully by cleaning it will solve the issue.

Dirty throttle would cause difficult to starts, engine easily going fuel flooded on certain weather condition as cold engine and rough idle. In your case looks like on certain condition one of a sensor giving wrong reading to PCM and engine is going to ripples. Could be MAP or TP sensor, but why PCM is putting out P0267 injector #3 circuit low, must be something to do with injector circuit then on the positive side as the PCM is monitoring that circuit from commanded negative to injector #3. When PCM is not sending switching signal to that injector can monitor power supply to that injector through that injector circuit. Dose this make sense to you? Wiring fault? But why only on very certain conditions?

atip wrote: Dirty throttle would cause difficult to starts, engine easily going fuel flooded on certain weather condition as cold engine and rough idle. In your case looks like on certain condition one of a sensor giving wrong reading to PCM and engine is going to ripples. Could be MAP or TP sensor, but why PCM is putting out P0267 injector #3 circuit low, must be something to do with injector circuit then on the positive side as the PCM is monitoring that circuit from commanded negative to injector #3. When PCM is not sending switching signal to that injector can monitor power supply to that injector through that injector circuit. Dose this make sense to you? Wiring fault? But why only on very certain conditions? For what I understand the error code could be wrong and the issue is with totally different area. However, if you read my first post I mention by the end the small accident I had, and how oddly the engine oil almost 1/2 of the oil splash all over the underhood!! To avoid bigger problem I washed the underhood with special chemical in what should be specialized car wash company, that wash "the chemical" might thinne the oil allowed it to reach places like the MAP sensor. What am sure about it there is misfire in #3 cylinder and may God help me finding the cause the soonest possible. Another thing I found oil residue in the spark plugs chamber which I monitored after I cleaned most of that it never increased, so am pretty sure from that accident splash.

Oh C'mon guys, don't give up on me now...

Let's summarizing where we are. Vehicle dose not losses any power when ripples as you drive in 4th gear at 60mph at 2500rpm but warning light will pop up with P0303 and P0267, if accelerator pedal pushed further then vehicle stops ripples and drives ok. Sometimes that dose happen when engine idles but mainly when driven on highway. Suspect wiring loom to that injector shorting out or poor connection (not broken) intermittently on positive side or negative side. You need to disconnect PCM and injector and test wiring to that injector under load. Let's say on PCM side please ground wire to battery negative, on positive side please found PCM relay and supply 12v from battery positive to pin 87 of that relay. Do NOT touch pins 85 and 86, very important. Then in injector plug #3 connect 55 watt head light bulb, that way we put that injector circuit under 5 amp load, injector dose not take that much power but we will put that circuit under high load but not over load to stress wire to cause wire loom to burnt out. Then observe brightness of bulb and play with wiring loom, or do Volt drop test. Get DC volt meter and check negative and positive side. Measure negative side of that circuit from bulb negative to battery negative post, then positive side of bulb to battery positive post,closer reading to 0.0 volts means good circuit. High reading means bad circuit. Then post readings. We not giving up If you not sure what to do then just ask, I can draw diagram.

Mr. Atip, first of all thank you for your constant help and not giving up on me, as am about to give up Last update before I recieved you message, I cleared the the error code and took it for a drive, it still ripple but not that much hardly feeling it, but when I stop or changing the fear to reverse it kind of jump a bit "RPM goes little higher and back to normal", that was before I took off the throttle body and the MAP to clean it, and the engine light came flashing only couple of time then it goes off, afterward I checked the error code again it gave me error P0303 (as pending) and the error P0267 went on gray zone (to be cleared after flawless drive cycle) does this mean anything to be added to the previous condition ? I attached a pic of what I guess is the PCM, is it right? If yes then it doesn't reach number 85 or more hardly 60 something port on it!! (When it comes to electrical am sucks only the very basic stuff I know about )

Abuilyas wrote: I attached a pic of what I guess is the PCM, is it right? Yes, that is PCM. Is your vehicle automatic? If so, looks like there is some issue with your auto gear box as it jumps when you stops or put in revers. So dose change gears over smoothly when you drive? Still we needs to find out issue for P0267, if injector dose not work properly then PCM also will pop up P0303 misfire detected. Can you clearly explain when engine do ripples and when do MIL flashes?