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99 Chrysler Sebring 2.5L V6 P0171 Fault: Engine Dies, No Power, Fuel Pump Sound, Post-Service Diagnosis

Model: 99 Chrysler Sebring 2.5L v6 Fault Code: P0171 Posted: 2007-04-14 17:14

My daughter was driving home when the car suddenly died, as if it had run out of fuel or lost all power. I heard the fuel pump engage, so I connected an OSBII scanner and retrieved a P0171 code — indicating a lean air-fuel mixture in Bank 1. I've confirmed that the timing belt is intact and turning the crankshaft properly. No check engine light appears when performing the three-key-on sequence. Just one month ago, I completed several major repairs: new head gaskets, machined cylinder heads, water pump, coolant hoses, thermostat, and spark plugs. Given this history, I'm concerned that a recent repair may have introduced an issue. The P0171 code suggests possible fuel delivery or air intake problems — especially after such extensive work. Any advice on diagnosing the root cause would be greatly appreciated.

Related fault codes
P0171
Comments (12)
Anonymous 2007-04-16 08:06

The distributor is a known failure point in the 99 Chrysler Sebring 2.5L V6 engine, especially after maintenance work or when exposed to heat and vibration.

Anonymous 2007-04-18 15:18

I ended up spending $600 for a new distributor — but this seems high given the part's cost and availability in remanufactured units. I suspect it may have been damaged during installation or replaced with an old unit.

Anonymous 2007-04-18 15:40

After engine repairs, the ignition system — particularly the distributor’s internal igniter — can crack due to mechanical stress. This often leads to open circuits under the cap, causing misfires and poor performance. I've seen this happen during rotor replacement. A remanufactured distributor is typically much cheaper than $600, even in Canada. I'd recommend discussing a cost split with the original repair shop — especially if the issue arose post-repair.

Anonymous 2007-04-18 15:59

The total cost was actually around $560, including labor. The engine access is quite difficult, so labor time is significant. Hopefully this fixes the problem for now.

Anonymous 2007-04-18 16:29

Removing the upper plenum can greatly improve access to the distributor and ignition components — it's surprisingly straightforward once you get used to it.

Anonymous 2007-04-19 17:30

I had to take it back to the shop. First, they didn't perform a test drive because the car was low on fuel. They mentioned that the catalytic converter glowed red after just 15 minutes of idling — I asked what could cause this, and they said: 'I don’t know; I didn’t run diagnostics.' After driving less than a mile, it felt sluggish. I returned home after about 4 miles, where I noticed strong heat coming from the catalytic converter. Final repairs: head gaskets, water pump, spark plugs, and new distributor. I'm now wondering what else might be wrong — and when to stop spending money on this vehicle.

Anonymous 2007-04-20 08:28

It seems likely the shop made a mistake or failed to provide proper service. Unless this is one of the most neglected Sebring models I've ever seen!

Anonymous 2007-04-20 14:35

LOL — it may be the most neglected Sebring I’ve ever seen! My daughter was driving it, not leaving home. Anyway, after discussion, many now believe a clogged catalytic converter is the likely cause.

Anonymous 2007-04-20 15:07

A clogged catalytic converter remains a plausible explanation for P0171 and engine stalling symptoms.

Anonymous 2007-04-21 09:42

I can't believe this. I went out to inspect the exhaust — there was plenty of exhaust flow, and I could smell raw fuel. This suggests the engine isn’t burning fuel properly. Upon checking the so-called new distributor, I found that three spark plug wires from Bank 1 were not connected at all — they just lay loose. The back three appeared slightly loose. So, I'm running on only three cylinders. I’m relieved the shop is closed today — I wouldn’t have wanted to show up in such a state. Also, why isn't the check engine light illuminating? And how does a new distributor look with an old cap installed? I am deeply frustrated right now.

Anonymous 2007-04-21 10:12

Not all repair shops are equal. I’ve had mechanics make mistakes, especially when younger technicians (in their early 20s) handle jobs without sufficient experience — they often rush to finish and take the customer’s money. Dealerships generally provide better quality work but at a much higher cost. For independent shops, it's wise to ask for referrals and verify reputation. The failure to connect three spark plug wires is not just careless — it reflects incompetence. This raises serious concerns about other potential errors in the repair process. If the cap appears used (perhaps simply old), then either: - The shop purchased a used distributor from a wrecking yard, or - They reused the original cap on a new distributor (which is not standard practice — distributors typically come with new caps). Take a close look at the distributor to assess whether it looks genuine. Serial numbers may help trace origin and manufacturing date.

Anonymous 2007-04-21 12:51

Visually, it appears they used the old cap — the distributor under the cap looked very clean. However, given that the shop charged over $300 for the unit, I would expect a new cap to be included.