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2009 Chevy Malibu LTZ P0011 & P0014 Codes: DIY Fix with Actuator Solenoids and Sensor

Model: 2009 Chevy Malibu LTZ Fault Code: P0011 Posted: 2015-06-25 07:02

Hi there! I own a 2009 Chevrolet Malibu LTZ with a 2.4L engine, currently at just over 100,000 miles. Last week, the check engine light came on while driving. I visited a local auto parts store and retrieved diagnostic codes: P0011 and P0014. The light has not reappeared since, though I did not clear the codes. I’ve ordered three components—Genuine GM 12655421 Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve, Genuine GM 12655420 Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve, and AC Delco 213-1690 GM Original Equipment Engine Camshaft Position Sensor—expected to arrive today. Initially, the car produced a slight knocking or ticking noise upon startup, which faded after a few minutes. It also seemed to lose some of its acceleration response. Yesterday, while driving, the engine completely stalled out—no check engine light triggered—and now it will only turn over but immediately stalls again. I contacted the dealership’s service department to confirm whether this behavior was due to something more serious. They stated that replacing these parts myself wouldn’t resolve the stalling issue and that I’d need to bring the car in for a machine-based reset to restart the engine. This claim has been difficult to verify through research, as many online sources suggest that owners successfully fix P0011/P0014 issues by replacing solenoids and sensors themselves. I also understand that my vehicle is just over the powertrain warranty limit (approximately 100k miles), but I was surprised that the dealership quoted $300+ for repairs without asking about mileage or warranty status. I’ve always performed all routine maintenance myself, and so far haven’t encountered any issues beyond what I can resolve. My questions are: - Is there truth to the dealership’s claim that a code like P0011/P0014 doesn't allow DIY fixes? - Can replacing these parts (solenoids and sensor) truly fix both the stalling and knocking symptoms? - Should I perform an oil change even though it's not due—given that I’ve recently replaced the coolant reservoir (which had a slow leak at the seam)? Any advice or insights would be greatly appreciated! P.S. The ticking noise may have been related to low oil pressure, poor oil quality, or insufficient lubrication—so I’m also checking oil levels and condition before proceeding.

Related fault codes
P0011P0014
Comments (6)
Anonymous 2015-06-25 07:42

I'll help clarify this point: P0011 and P0014 are not definitive indicators that a part needs replacement. These codes suggest an issue with the Variable Cam Timing (VCT) system, which could stem from wiring faults, low oil pressure, timing components, or even the actuator itself. Diagnostics should be performed before replacing parts. The term 'machine' used by dealerships likely refers to a diagnostic scanner—this is not a specialized tool that only works in a shop. A basic OBD2 scanner can read and clear codes, and many DIYers successfully use these tools. Dealerships may not be able to confirm warranty status over the phone, especially without knowing your exact mileage history. My advice: Install the solenoids and sensor you’ve purchased (check YouTube tutorials for step-by-step guides). Confirm that engine oil is in good condition—consider adding a bottle of 'Risolone' oil detergent if the car starts. Also, verify oil level, quality, and pressure—ticking noises often point to these factors. After completing the replacement, monitor performance closely. The stalling issue may be more complex than just a solenoid failure. Take it one step at a time.

Anonymous 2015-06-25 08:31

Thanks for the response! I'm confused about why the dealership claimed that replacing these parts wouldn't fix the stalling and that only a 'machine' could restart the car. I’ve done my own research, and many users report successfully fixing P0011/P0014 issues by replacing solenoids and sensors themselves. I bought this vehicle from the same dealership five years ago and have trusted them for basic services like oil changes—no major repairs yet. I’m just wondering if their explanation is accurate or if it’s a common misrepresentation.

Anonymous 2015-06-25 09:35

I fully support DIY repairs, but the misinformation about OBD2 codes (DTCs) is widespread and needs clarification. 1) The dealership said replacing parts wouldn’t fix the issue—this implies that the solenoids or sensor aren't at fault. But without diagnostics, it's impossible to know if these components are actually defective. Why replace them without testing? 2) The term 'machine' sounds dismissive—it likely refers to a diagnostic scanner, which is accessible and widely used by DIYers today. I believe the stalling issue may involve more than just solenoid failure. Focus on diagnostics first: check oil pressure, quality, and levels. Follow the advice above—start with one step at a time—and monitor results carefully.

Anonymous 2015-07-01 05:39

The parts replacement worked perfectly! The car started right up after installation, and the knocking noise has completely disappeared. It’s running much smoother now, with no check engine lights or codes. It was a simple fix—only took about 30 minutes—and I noticed that the old solenoids were heavily clogged with debris, which likely contributed to the performance issues.

Anonymous 2019-01-08 07:51

I recently purchased a 2010 Chevy Malibu LTZ and am experiencing similar symptoms: a ticking noise for about 30 seconds when starting, then it stops. This started after I changed my oil—before that, the car didn’t make any noise. Now every time I start it, I hear this. I’ve got P0011 and P0021 codes. I’m concerned and not sure if it’s related to solenoids or oil quality. Any advice? I’d appreciate a detailed explanation on how to diagnose this properly.

Anonymous 2019-01-08 12:08

I’ll start a new post for my specific issue with the 2010 Malibu LTZ.