2006 Chrysler Sebring Touring P0302

some questions to get started- which engine? 2.4L 2.7L? how did yu get the code P0302 - do you have a scanner or code reader ? that is the only code ? I ask how you went from P0302 to diagnosing injector and PCM what testing was done? 1) In The absence of a PCM code* just use of a "noid' light will check circuit. I asked above about scanner-? 2) above answer will determine repair- noid on steady. off constantly, flashing- BASICS locate and repair the damaged wire IF that is the issue... 3) dealers are bound to only use OEM parts- any remanufactured item is only as good as the facility doing the work -caveat emptor- information can be imparted on the PCM at the reman facility- but not the ideal. taking a SWAG - wrong or incomplete diagnoises.

2.7L how did yu get the code P0302 - do you have a scanner or code reader ? that is the only code ? Advance Auto Parts, Dealership, and the key dance where you turn the key in the ignition about 3-4 times, and it'll display the codes. I ask how you went from P0302 to diagnosing injector and PCM what testing was done? Dealership mechanic gave me the walk-through of how he concluded it was an electrical problem, only. "It's an electrical problem because it had a #2 fuel injector code in the PCM, that means the fuel injector is bad, wire's bad, or the PCM is bad. The fuel injector circuited out internally which means that the ground wire and the ASD relay feed wire fused together, and when that happens, it takes out the ground control property of the PCM, thats why you need a new fuel injector and PCM. Because it's an electrical problem, the injector is not spaying fuel and that's causing the misfire. I tested it using a Noid Light, I ----- the PCM with scan tool, and test ground circuit if it's closing, I checked the ASD feed make sure it's 12 volts all the time, the other end to the ground, ----- you the injector, it goes to the ground circuit, then you test that with the volt ohm meter. The PCM was not closing the ground circuit for the injector." 1) In The absence of a PCM code* just use of a "noid' light will check circuit. I asked above about scanner-? So I should unplug negative plug from battery to reset the codes, and then use a noid light to check circuit? I have access to A digital Volt/Ohm Meter. Is it possible to test it with this, or do I need to seek out a noid light? information can be imparted on the PCM at the reman facility- but not the ideal. Ok, so why is it not ideal to impart information at the reman facility? What more is involved in flashing a PCM than loading it with software that are the standards of my VIN? What kind of adjustments would be made in this process, if their statement holds any truth. It has crossed my mind heavily that if there was an internal problem with this refurbished PCM, that would explain why this new PCM didn't fix it, and I would have to buy a completely new Mopar PCM and let them flash it in the car. If the PCM doesn't test out to make any difference, I'm going to pop my old PCM back in and return the refurbished PCM and save a dollar unless someone finds it a good idea to keep it for tune-up reasons.

let try to unravel this- the only code is p0302? that is NOT an injector circuit code. So lets dbl check the #2 injector - the #2 injector - front bank passenger side. install noid light - start engine- does it stay on steady - not on at all, flashing? then turn eng off key to ON - noid light is ? With a DVOM... unplug injector - with KOEO DK/LG is 12v. use dvom to ck driver circuit TN wire- is it grounded? shake and tug to simulate vibration of running eng.. is it grounded?

The spark plus look too lean. The Fuel Injector Ohm readings check out, they look normal, but is starved of fuel. If you want to see the photos of them, there are several photos so I've uploaded to the weblink at the very bottom: http://www.georgiarvinstitute.com/chrys ... ng2006.php Compression Check is postponed to tomorrow evening. However, here are the results of the Noid Light test today: Fuel Injector #2 and #4 blinked at the same rate. I had disconnected all wire plugs to spark plugs when doing this. Ignition Coil #2 and #4 blinked differently than the fuel injectors, but at the same rate. I took video. Fuel injector #2: http://youtu.be/xpyyY6zFDnE Fuel Injector #4: http://youtu.be/7iPjzpGoT1Q Ignition Coil #2: http://youtu.be/SIqh7ziAEl8 Ignition Coil #2: http://youtu.be/30JDUPnISwc The Fuel Injector Ohm readings check out, they look normal: 1. 14.9 2: 14.3 3. 14.8 4. 14.8 5. 14.8 Take a look at some abnormalities I found today: 1. Chafed wire from main harness connector of the PCM. It looks like where all the harnesses lead to. There's two plugs that plug into this main harness connector, and I followed it to the PCM. - http://www.georgiarvinstitute.com/resou ... 6x1114.jpg - http://www.georgiarvinstitute.com/resou ... 6x1114.jpg 2. I found a leak of what I think is brake fluid from the ABS? Located under the air box. - http://www.georgiarvinstitute.com/resou ... 6x1114.jpg - http://www.georgiarvinstitute.com/resou ... 6x1114.jpg

OK 2&4 blinked what about 1 and 3? unplug PCM - use a DVOM - check wire from inj to PCM..is there a short between 2*4? all wires from inj to pcm should show @5ohms max- are wires 1&3 open- grounded ? look for bent pins at PCM. STARVED for fuel - look at FT's - are they + ? if so what ? over 20 I would look at LATER. ABS defer for later.

kev2 wrote: OK 2&4 blinked what about 1 and 3? For fuel injectors, they all blinked the same. Sort spark plug ignitions, I only checked 2 and 4. It wasn't easy because the kit I had access to didn't fit the chrysler ignition coil plugs exactly, so I had to tape electric wire extensions from the noid light into coil plug. I will test the rest today, ok? unplug PCM - use a DVOM - check wire from inj to PCM..is there a short between 2*4? all wires from inj to pcm should show @5ohms max- are wires 1&3 open- grounded ? look for bent pins at PCM. This is the tricky part, I don't exactly know which color wire of the PCM harness to stick a pin/needle in to connect to DVOM that runs to injector, and which DVOM prong (black or red) to touch with.

hold off if the noid lights are all flashing - with eng OFF key in pocket, test each injector driver circuit for grounded- it should not be. open - it should be open -no voltage OR ground. check that no 2 are shorted... ie 2 has continuity to 4... If no issue (my thinking) and no other code- then there is NO reason to suspect an injector issue they all blink.. COnfirm all injectors have red and dlack wires? FYI: the injector has 2 wires- 1 is 12v - the other is the driver... If at all 6 injectors the wires are red black? suspect wiring work was done on harness... peel back loom look for splices.

kev2 wrote: hold off if the noid lights are all flashing - with eng OFF key in pocket, test each injector driver circuit for grounded- it should not be. open - it should be open -no voltage OR ground. check that no 2 are shorted... ie 2 has continuity to 4... If no issue (my thinking) and no other code- then there is NO reason to suspect an injector issue they all blink.. COnfirm all injectors have red and dlack wires? FYI: the injector has 2 wires- 1 is 12v - the other is the driver... If at all 6 injectors the wires are red black? suspect wiring work was done on harness... peel back loom look for splices. I disconnected the battery, all injectors from the wire/harness plug, and PCM. Checking for continuity (resistance) between injector 2 and 4 wire/harness plug: - I touch one multimeter lead to the ( - ) of #2, and - I touch the other multimeter lead to ( - ) of injector 4's wire/harness plug. Results: OL. - One lead to ( - ) of injector 2, and the other lead to ( + ) of injector 4. Results: OL. - One lead to ( + ) of Injector 2, and the other lead to ( - ) of injector 4. Results: OL. - One lead to ( + ) of injector 2, and the other lead to ( + ) of injector 4. I repeated this for all 6 injectors with every injector and they were all OL. I also tested all wire/harness plug with one lead in each injector plug's negative (negative trigger), and the other lead to ground negative (negative of battery). Results: OL. I will confirm that all injector wires have one green wire (positive/ power feed / always 12v) and there's the negative trigger with different colors for each injector harness plug.

the omly code you show is p0302 still? As I mentioned that is NOT an injector circuit issue... you should press on to other causes for a misfire... spark- compression-

kev2 wrote: the omly code you show is p0302 still? As I mentioned that is NOT an injector circuit issue... you should press on to other causes for a misfire... spark- compression- Ok. So. One of the first things I did was change spark plugs to E3 Diamond plugs (dealership and sources tell me that Champion plugs sold by Chrysler/Mopar dealership are the only ones I should use, that E3 is not recommended but I don't really know why) But if you think it can cause misfire, I guess I'll have to go buy them. Just say the word! Compression check: Cylinder #1: 175 #2: 175 #3: 170 #4: 160 #5: 185 #6: 175 Fuel Pressure: I've bought the most expensive Master Fuel Pressure tester kit at Harbor Freight and it supplies T-fittings and adapters for cars with Schrader valve. My car doesn't have that. See video: http://youtu.be/JAwJhUbAy54 Air leak: when the engine is misfiring and the engine is bouncing heavily, I sprayed carb cleaner around injector 2 and the gasket manifold behind it, and the engine hesitated for a moment and went back to normal. Nothing happens when it's misfiring subtly. (The misfire's intensity is inconsistent throughout the day but when it vibrates bad, the P0302 comes back) In the instance of air leak, do you think it's okay to remove intake manifold's rubber gasket rings and clean them, and clean the grooves it sits in? Or does that damage something I'm unaware of such as the adhesive or something?

if e3 plugs are so good why are they NOT OEM? using something like this makes another step in troubleshooting - as we must first validate their performance. ANYWAY confirm all 6 plugs are firing...COP makes it cumbersome but still can do. no#2 plug is located where?

kev2 wrote: if e3 plugs are so good why are they NOT OEM? using something like this makes another step in troubleshooting - as we must first validate their performance. ANYWAY confirm all 6 plugs are firing...COP makes it cumbersome but still can do. no#2 plug is located where? I found out where that air leak was coming from. The new fuel injector #2. It turns out that I overlooked a major problem that I should have noticed when I plugged it in. The bottom O-ring was missing. So I took the O-ring from my old injector, cleaned it, sprayed WD-40 on it before putting it on the new injector, and the car ran smooth. I test drove it for about 30 minutes and it's good... for now. When the misfire comes back, I'll get new O-rings. Thanks for showing me electrical stuff.