I have been trying to diagnose this code 412 on my 1997 Taurus GL. 3.0 liter 2 valve. The secondary air pump works fine when I jumper 12 volts to it and the ss relay has been changed out. Still getting this code. What step(s) next?? Help!
doesn't the pump start to seize up or something and blow that fuse? Seems to me I remember reading or hearing something like that!
Thanks guys. I did look at that fuse and it is ok. Would anybody have (or know where I can get) the specific circuit diagram of the secondary air pump?I have the Chiltons CD and it does not get into the secondary air pump at all. Any Ideas???? Thanks, again, for the help so far.
all data
No, just the electrical diagram from the EEC module to the SS relay. I am hoping it is NOT the EEC module that is at fault. If I had a "machine" I could force on the air pump but lacking this I will have to do a point to point troubleshoot effort. Thanks again.
Comp was referring to "all data" the website that has wiring diagrams and other auto related info. Keep us posted.
I was re-reading through the post and that code refers to the control circuit. So, you'll need to check at the EAM relay and see if you have batt. voltage at terminal 1(white wire). (If not, look for an open between fuse and relay.) Also check for Batt. voltage at terminal 5 of the relay. If that checks okay: Next, Remove the white/orange wire(pin 5, i think) from C195 PCM connector and supply your own voltage to the wire(with it removed from the connector and the connector plugged back in) If the pump runs when you do this, you know theproblem is with the PCM's control of the pump, not the pumps secondary wiring. Do that first and post back the results
Thank you muchly" Darkrooms". I had to resort to go to Autozone to check with a Haynes Manual for this car and did,indeed, see the circuit diagram. I still don't know why "Chiltons" does not include those in it's cd. At any rate I did follow your guidlines (up to a point). I did find that it must be the SS relay. I had constant 12 volts on the hot side of the relay and when I turned on the engine, the signal side (of the ss "Coil") did get close to zero volts. That SHOULD have pulled up the relay and starte the pump. It did not. Think I had TWO bad SS relays that were giving me a "gotcha". Guess I have to see where the best price of a good SS relay will be found. I do owe Autozone the best first bid. Good people. Thanks, again, "Darkrooms" hope to work with you again. With these cars, these days, guess that's a sure bet. Hope can return the favor. Mike M
Notice that the relay is fed 12 V in two locations. 1 is for the feed to the relay's coil and 1 is for one side of the relays switch. Make sure you have both, or replacing the relay will do nothing. Note too that if you jump the switch with a jumper wire, the air pump should run if the wiring to it is okay.
his first post says if jumped the pump works so does he still need a relay?
I believe he said he provided his own power and grounds to the pump. That tells us his pump is okay, but says nothing about the control circuit or the secondary wiring.
Checked for the price of that SS relay. Tried NAPA but they did not carry it. Ford wants over $100.00 For that part. What the heck are they up to on the price for this unit. Anybody want to hazard a guess as to what is inside the plastic body of this device. Bet it is just a power transister . But the way, yes, I did indeed ,hot wire the pump and it spun fine with it's own ground circuit. I took the white orange wire that goes to the pump and jumpered 12 volts to it. Thanks ,again for all the help on this. I'll let you know how it turns out. Still looking for a "cheaper" alternative than the Ford dealership. Youch!
probably a wrecker might have one! Have you tried online, RockAuto for example!
Thanks ,again, Jeff and Darkrooms. I have a friend that designed a relay "alternative" circuit. I will be checking it out on the car shortly. I will share my progress with this approach ASAP. My friend has extensive electronic training and is "sensitive" to the not cause injury to the driveline control module in our attempts to do a more cost effective work around. Guess I just don't like to be "held up" by Ford on this device. See the things us "Shade Tree Mechanics" will do! Soon
Hey out there . Me and my bud have designed a "circuit " to replace that darn SS Air pump relay that the Ford folks say is a chronic failure item. I'm looking for donations (to pay for the beer that keeps this shade tree mechanic going). I could be talked into sharing the circuit with anybody who wants to take the trouble to build it. No big deal. (Saves more than $100.00 for the Ford Part). Thanks ,again, for the help on this forum for those that took the time to post a reply to me. Let's all keep up the good work to help deal with this emission issue. It will get worse in the future. Mike
Well, if you're sure the relay is at fault. Did jumpering the switch activate the pump? With the relay installed, did manually activating the control circuit energize the relay and pump? If so, the relay isn't at fault, but it's the control circuit. If manually activating the control circuit didn't energize the relay and pump, then the relay is the likely culprit.
So you want beer money in exchange for plans for a system to cheat the emissions system in your car? Hope you didn't already buy ice!
Jeff, OUCH that hurt. I did not CHEAT anything and that would be a federal offense. You and I both know there would be substantial jail time for that attempt. You have misconstrued my suggestion and I'm sorry if I have miscommunicated my intent. My fix is NOT a work around a fault code NOR is it an attempt to thwart the emission system in this car. The circuit that we designed works JUST the same way to turn the air pump on and off as directed by the Power train Control module. It does use off the shelf components to accomplish the same function as the SS relay that the manufacturer installed. As I said before, they want a lot of $$$ for this relay and my attempt was to help mitigate the cost by designing an alternative to this relay. Hope this clears up my comments and,again, sorry for the misunderstranding on the subject.
Oh okay, By the way it read It seemed like you disabled the air pump or tricked the circuit into not turning the lamp on. Im all for ingenuity. I saw a Mazda last week with a failled distributor that they' got running again with a ignition moduel for a GM HEI distributor. That's ingenius because the distributor is probaly a couple hundred bucks and the ign module was probably about 20 bucks!
Is the number 8 30 amp fuse okay or blown? If blown post back. Also check your EAM relay. Try replacing it. Both are common causes for P0412. Of course if the fuse is blown, you'll have to find the cause. Start there and post back. Sorry for the delay.