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1996 Nissan Maxima P0150 P0136 P0105 P0130: Diagnosis and Fix Tips for Engine Shutdown at Stops

Model: 1996 Nissan Maxima Fault Code: P0105 Posted: 2013-09-03 15:36

I own a 1996 Nissan Maxima with a V6 engine and automatic transmission. The car has started shutting down intermittently during stops, but it consistently restarts on its own. I've already replaced the knock sensor, starter, airflow sensor, battery cables, and several other minor components. While the symptoms have improved in frequency, the issue still occurs. After troubleshooting, my OBD-II scanner shows multiple fault codes: P0150 (O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction - Bank 1), P0136 (O2 Sensor Signal Malfunction - Bank 1), P0105 (MAF Sensor Circuit Fault), and P0130 (O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction - Bank 1). I've cleared these codes, driven the car around, and then new codes appear: P0440 (EVAP System Leak Detected) and P0446 (EVAP Canister Vent Control Malfunction). After clearing those, the system returns with a mix of codes including P040 (likely a typo or misread), P0150, P0130, P0440, P0446, and P0174 (Rich Fuel Trim Bank 1). I previously received an EGR-related code that I no longer have documentation for. The car runs well under normal conditions—strong engine performance and excellent fuel economy—but when it begins to act up, letting it sit for about 30–60 minutes often resolves the issue. I’ve been advised to try throttle spray, but I’m unsure of its exact application (e.g., behind the MAF sensor). While this temporarily improves performance, it doesn’t resolve the root cause. My current mechanic friend has suggested checking the distributor assembly and related components. Given that similar issues in older Nissan Maximas are often linked to ignition system wear or temperature-dependent performance, I’m considering a deeper inspection of wiring harnesses, O2 sensors, and EVAP system integrity. I'm seeking community input on how to diagnose this intermittent shutdown issue—especially given the cluster of OBD-II codes and the pattern of symptoms that resolve after idle time. Any insights into possible root causes or diagnostic steps would be greatly appreciated.

Related fault codes

P0105P0130P0136P0150

Comments (5)

Anonymous 2013-09-03 15:51

I'll check for replies to my post soon—don't have 24-hour internet access. Thanks in advance!

Anonymous 2013-09-04 17:20

No one seems to be able to help me with this issue right now.

Anonymous 2013-09-04 18:02

I'll try to assist you directly. My 1993 Nissan Maxima had a similar OBD-II code—specifically for a faulty knock sensor. Replacing it required removing the intake manifold, which is labor-intensive. After replacement, the issue didn't fully resolve. The real problem was temperature-related: when cold, the engine ran fine; at normal operating temperatures, it began running poorly and would stall. I eventually found that a bad distributor cap was causing intermittent misfires. Replacing just the distributor cap didn’t fix it—after checking spark plugs, coil, fuel pump, and other components, I replaced the entire distributor assembly. That resolved the issue completely. The internal camshaft or crankshaft sensor is located inside the distributor, and while there was no code for it initially, this component has been known to fail in older Nissan Maximas. This experience may help you diagnose your car. Try identifying when symptoms occur—during cold starts? At idle? At high RPMs? Best of luck, Ray

Anonymous 2013-09-05 06:26

Given the cluster of O2 sensor and EVAP-related codes, I recommend inspecting the wiring harnesses to all oxygen sensors and the EVAP system for corrosion or loose connections. These are common failure points in older vehicles like the 1996 Nissan Maxima.

Anonymous 2013-09-10 11:53

Thank you both, Rayrod and Mohawkmtrs—your input has been incredibly helpful. Rayrod: I’ve noticed that my car runs better now during cooler weather. When starting up, it idles slightly higher and sometimes seems to backfire without me touching the throttle—funny, but noticeable. The shutdowns still happen eventually, especially on longer drives. I did try throttle spray (applied behind the MAF sensor), which helped temporarily—but didn’t fix the core issue. I’ll definitely try replacing the distributor assembly next. Mohawkmtrs: My brother, who works 12-hour shifts, is helping me with this. He also suggested that if sensors and EVAP systems are ruled out, the wiring to those components might be faulty. I'll pass along this idea—it could point in the right direction. Thanks so much for your time and insight. I’ve learned a lot about engine diagnostics recently—thanks to all of you! Many blessings to both of you.