P0301 Misfire Diagnosis on 1996 Chrysler T&C 3.3L V6: Spark Plug, Injector or Internal Engine Issue?

If spark plugs and wires haven’t been replaced recently, it's worth doing a full replacement as part of routine maintenance. For the 1996 Chrysler T&C 3.3L V6, cylinder numbering follows this layout: 1, 3, 5 on one side; 2, 4, 6 on the other—cylinder #1 is located at the rear passenger-side head, not easily accessible. This makes it challenging to service without proper tools or a lift.

I listened closely to my own vehicle with the hood up and heard a faint ticking from the left rear—consistent with cylinder #1. While fuel injectors typically produce a soft clicking sound during operation, if there's no significant noise difference compared to other cylinders, it’s less likely that an injector is faulty. A persistent misfire like P0301 suggests either ignition or combustion issues.

Cylinder #1 on the 1996 Chrysler T&C is indeed the most difficult to access due to its position near the passenger-side strut tower. Removing it without a hoist requires removing the alternator or taking off the upper plenum for easier access. Many mechanics recommend doing this to avoid extensive disassembly. Most fuel injectors operate quietly; if there's no abnormal noise, a new injector is unlikely needed. If spark plugs and wires haven’t been replaced in years, they are likely overdue.

The firing order for the 1996 Chrysler T&C 3.3L V6 is actually 1-2-3-4-5-6. Some online sources incorrectly label cylinder positions—especially in engine block diagrams. The correct layout should be: left side (front to back) as 1, 3, 5; right side as 2, 4, 6. This helps ensure accurate diagnosis when identifying which cylinder is misfiring.

Thanks for the clarification. The ticking sound I hear seems to originate from cylinder #1 and intensifies under load—very similar to a collapsed lifter. A bad valve or burnt piston would likely cause hesitation or rough idle, which isn’t present here. While a faulty spark plug could cause intermittent misfires, it’s unlikely to produce the distinct lifter-like ticking. Could I have a collapsed lifter? Is this common in 3.3L V6 engines?

Exhaust leaks are less common on 1996 Chrysler T&C 3.3L engines but can produce ticking noises, especially if the exhaust manifold is cracked or loose. Check for signs of leaks near the manifold and around the valve cover. Additionally, some early 3.3L models had known issues with cracked rocker bosses (also called towers), which may lead to misfires without obvious performance symptoms.

I now have a dead miss and the noise is louder—definitely coming from the upper engine area. I took it to a friend who has experience with these engines. I don’t have time or energy to work on it myself, so I’m hoping it’s just a bad rocker arm rather than an internal engine failure.

A failed rocker arm typically requires removal of the cylinder head for repair—especially if the rocker shaft is cracked or broken. This is a significant and labor-intensive job that often leads to full head replacement in cases of structural damage.

Why would removing the cylinder head be necessary to replace a rocker arm? Is there a misunderstanding about what part is being replaced?

I believe 'rocker boss' was meant—this refers to the bolted mounting area on the engine block. The bad news: I recently experienced exactly this issue and had a cracked rocker boss (also called a tower). The noise increased because the rocker shaft broke or fractured first. Ultimately, I ended up with a full cylinder head replacement.

Any idea what a fair price would be for a complete head and rocker repair on this model? I don’t want to attempt it myself if it’s beyond my skill level or budget.

A dealer quoted between $1,200–$1,400 for the work. I did it myself—parts cost about $400 total. If you hire a professional, consider replacing both cylinder heads to prevent future issues. I only replaced one head; now, 8,000 miles later, the second head is starting to show the same ticking noise.

Did you replace the head for $400 total?

Yes—parts only. The rebuilt head cost around $245, rocker shaft $40. Remaining costs were gasket kits and timing chain replacement. I regret not replacing both heads earlier—the van has 178,000 miles on it. Most people would have just bought a new car, but I have more time than money (though not enough).

That’s a very reasonable price for parts—especially considering the age and mileage of this engine.

Does anyone have a picture or description of what a rocker boss looks like? Is it the bar with six rocker arms attached to it? I haven’t opened up the engine yet and want to know if this repair is beyond my capabilities.

This is a major job requiring proper tools and workspace. The bar connecting the rocker arms is called the rocker shaft; the boss refers to the mounting surface where bolts attach. I can’t share images, but you can find detailed diagrams in your local auto parts store’s shop manual.