Kw-h normal usage seal excellence

Sorry one more question, at the moment I am using a wall plug to charge, I am waiting for my home charger to be installed. I previously had a Tesla model 3 long range (before musk went a bit mad) and I rarely had trouble keeping it charged but the seal excellence seems to take almost twice as long to charge, am I doing something wrong? https://preview.redd.it/oh4ybjznof9g1.png?width=1008&format=png&auto=webp&s=5566ea844f9b98136b8b6fcad87ee7208cd9408f

My Performance gets about 19/100km (30/100mi), low regen because high regen is too harsh a transition, it's either on or off. Also the brake lights come on every time you try to coast but let off a bit too much.

So 35 isn't too far off then. I'm used to the harder Regen from my previous car, it could be that I'm still transitioning to my new car

Usage normal, I got 25 kWh / 100 km today due to most highway driving 140 km/h (Seal 313 bhp). I use normal regen, hard is too hard, like one pedal driving, too intense, hate it. But I don't care about efficiency at all, average cost of 1 kWh here is 0,1 EUR, so whatever.

Agree your consumption is in line with my experience.

It's not so much the cost but I am a community nurse so I'm trying to make sure I have enough charge for the day lol. I thought the battery was comparable to my previous car but I don't seem to get the range and it takes longer to charge so I am just making sure there isn't any settings etc that is having an impact

That's excellent thank you, I may have just been over thinking things and confusing myself haha. Thank you

As #1 - weather matters, now (+- 3 degrees) my range (efficiency) has dropped by 20-25%) so when there's more than +10 degrees the range will be 20-25% bigger. And never use ECO mode, it's useless and makes your car like a 150bhp vehicle with 2 seconds lag.

I must admit I tried eco mode then quickly turned it off haha, it has been only 7c temp but it seems my range is roughly standard which was my concern. Thanks for the info, it's appreciated mate

Tesla’s mobile charger is faster than BYD’s so we get a slower charge unless we change the charging cable.

I didn't think about the cable being the issue, is there any that you would recommend

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I initially did make that mistake and panicked haha

Do you notice any difference in kWh/100km using the normal mode?

AWD Seal from Japan here. Mine is lower, usually 16-17, now because of the winter(using heater) it’s up a little. On a warm days with Fans Only mode - 13-14 https://preview.redd.it/g4k2q17jqg9g1.jpeg?width=1312&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=46c1974e8ad057aa1e4fd26a513890d09cbd4b39

I did with the power available but not really with the kw-h

Thanks, so mine isn't too far off the average, I was concerned that it seemed high according to the official stats

The 313 bhp version in Normal mode gets around 270 bhp and a little throttle lag, that will be the only difference where you can save a little kWh (by not accelerating so hard, so something for something - better acceleration in this case is a cost of saving kWh - is it worth it?), because if you set a cruise speed f.e. 130 km/h then no matter if you drive on ECO / Normal / Sport - the usage should be the same. On the other hand - if you accelerate faster and cruise the speed sometimes it might be more efficient than accelerating for a longer period of time until reaching the cruise speed, who knows. The only reason i drive on Normal instead of Sport is my girlfriend as a passenger and sometimes my headache :D But the #1 is still the weather, i've been doing for the last 6 months a lot of the same trips - 2 x (there and back) 170km mostly highway driving practically the same driving conditions (acceleration / cruising speed), in the summertime i was able to arrive home with 20% battery (starting with 100%), last week when it was 4 degrees outside i ended up with 5% battery driving the last 30km as a turtle (120 instead of 140).

I do have a heavy foot (iif the translation makes any sense) In my case it's worth to save a bit of kWh because I still don't have my home charger at my apartment garage. Public charging costs almost the same as filling a diesel car but with the time and range inconvenience. And I have some trips where it's always going up for about 150km so I get 26kwh/100km and saving a bit can about a difference to arrive with 20%. Interior of Portugal still doesn't have too many public charging options so I need to have that range if there is some public charging that is unavailable or whatever. So I get it, driving modes are just about the response time of the throttle. I notice when I am at 120km I get a fast response when I floor it, so it's fine. I do have another question about the sport mode: I tested driven a Model 3 before buying the Seal and I think the Tesla does have a better response to the throttle pedal. Is it just me?

If i was about to save some kWh on the road the trick would be to go down with speed = slow down, slower speed = less kWh / 100km and i have actually noticed that it's better to use ... regenerative braking by yourself and not using so much autopilot / cruise control. I drive on regeneration Standard because HIGH is too intense for me, but thanks to that if i see a crossroad / roundabout and i have to save some kWh then i take the foot from the "pedal" quite early so the car actually just roll with regeneration for a long distance, it's like -17kWh (as i remember) regeneration after not pressing throttle and brake pedal at all. And if you press brake pedal just a little then you can see that the usage is like -30kWh without slowing down that much faster so you actually get more kWh back. There's also a way to save kWh by driving ... not on highways, if the distance is quite similar. When i drive 30km on a highway it's taking about 12% battery but when i do the same trip on 90km/h road and with small cities on the way i was actually getting 4% battery use at the same distance. So: 1) smart use of regeneration 2) slow down 3) use alternative - slowly - road if there's one and time doesn't matter that much = it's practically the same as #2). But i hate to do it so i've decided just to use public chargers when needed and drive normally. Seal is actually very responsive in Sport mode, but i have also noticed that it's better - before fast acceleration - if you press a little throttle pedal and then foot it, maybe it's has something to do with rpm of electric engine. Maybe it's also better with Standard regeneration isntead of HIGH (which is more for saving kWh, not the other way - "to waste it"). Maybe also other settings are helping, as i remember mine is also set to Sport steering wheel. I have seen a lot of reviews before buying the car and yeah, they were saying something about response ... but they have been testing the car in ECO or Normal mode, which is a little bit senseless = you want fast response = use Sport mode. When i do my 350km trips i actually take special shoes with me - so i can feel the throttle pedal better - for driving the car in Sport mode because it's so responsive, and i also have a heavy foot. Which version do you have? 313bhp or 530bhp?

I have the 313hp RWD version. I come from a manual ICE so it's still weird for me to leave the throttle a the car just brakes a bit due to the regeneration but I left it as it is because I honestly just trusted it was regenerating more energy and what you are explaining? I honestly don't even use the regeneration properly because I always like to use the brakes - ICE habits. Like, I'm doing down a highway I would normally let it coast so when there is a little hill it would have speed but on the Seal I need to push the throttle so I guess using high regeneration is bad in these cases and having regentationg on standard I wouldn't need to press the pedal. Too many variants ofc, but this little driving habits cost the long run and I don't be bothered by the range and have range anxiety. I didn't bother about it on my ICE and I had 6L/100km.

Seal's "left speedometer" has 2 options: 1) showing how much kW the car use while driving, it's the kWh/100km option: [https://www.youtube.com/shorts/xngxf7VkSvY](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/xngxf7VkSvY) 2) showing how much kW (1kW = 1,34bhp) of power it use while pressing throttle pedal, up to +- 230kW = 313 bhp: [https://www.youtube.com/shorts/v0\_hMGP4bfo](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/v0_hMGP4bfo) I use option 1) which also shows -kW (minus kW - while regenerating), i think it's this option in System settings - More - Power HP or kW, it changes between 1) and 2) https://preview.redd.it/nr0udxc3rl9g1.png?width=1055&format=png&auto=webp&s=4412a90e6a9d5a3c219a8f6549203438ab2a09d4 When you brake you actually don't brake ... in a simple way ... you just increase regeneration by pressing brake pedal + discs use, but mostly regeneration. That's why it's good, while driving, put the car in N gear and then brake - so you can clear the discs, because if you got shifter in N - you only use brake pads (no regeneration). If you use option 1) of speedometer it's really easy to notice.

I honestly just thought it was just the power unit of measurements. Like km vs mile. So basically if I select the HP option I get the kW of power on not the kW of energy usage, got it. Never used the horsepower option honestly I only used the kW of energy usage. I only have the car for about 3 weeks! But I already driven it for 2.000km I knew about the break/regeneration and it was actually a selling point versus the Tesla but I didn't know about the neutral thing - I actually didn't know I could engage Neutral while rolling? I don't even know how to engage Neutral. Yes I being honest. EDIT: I searched on YouTube https://youtu.be/H7hqR2H2dTw I thought I could just brake hard to use the disk to clean them