2022 MYP New Rear Pads and Rotors @ 39k miles.

Service is $1k

$1,000 + per service

Does it snow where you live?

Yes, it snows.

Do you not use regenerative braking?

I had sane problem, actually mine were much worse in rust. You pointed to the problem in your text - you hardly use your brakes. You actually need to tap the brakes to clear the rust and moisture off the brake surface. At least you can buy the parts directly from Brembo. My M3P - only Tesla was the supplier, and those were some expensive rotors.

I do, the front pads and rotors are perfect, rears are a different story

Might be caused by corrosion from salt on roads.

The brakes are used, I have the cold weather brake setting turned on

To me, it looks like the parking brake was sticking causing abnormal wear.

I live in snow and salt, 21 MYP with 80k miles and all 4 rotors look like new still.

That's wild. I have a 2019 M3P with 120k miles and not one have had to even replace the brake pads

You can grind your pads and rotors in service mode to clean them of rust

At those angles, there's no way to tell if there's any rotor wear, which I actually doubt. And you didn't show the pads either. They are a bit rust pitted, which is from a lack of use. About once a month you should 'bed' your pads since you seldomly use them. That is take a hard braking from about 50mph+ down to 10mph. Do this on a clear road w/ nobody around you (especially nobody behind you.) It will clean any rust off the grip surface of the rotor and heat the pads up.

I have done burnishing myself as well as the service team last week, I even paid to have the brakes lubed and checked. The noise was still happening after their service, I had to go back three times, they found this issue after the third time.

The brakes need serviced in the rust belt especially. I imagine most people don't know this. Tesla calls for the caliper bolts to be cleaned and lubricated every 12 months or 12k miles. These brakes don't look particularly bad. I'd have to see the pads. I'd upgrade the fluid and lube the caliper bolts. My rears looked odd and lacked full contact for months. It was taking forever for the pads to bed fully to the rotors. That's what this looks like to me along with the rust. I'd hit the rust with a brass wire brush and paint the metal that isn't touching brake pads with stop rust but that's me. No way would I replace these rotors without the above treatment first. You can even give the surface area a light resurfacing to clean them up. I've done it by hand. It is a common myth you have to "turn" the rotors. Only if they are really bad. And in that case new is better because you can't put the material back on and generally there isn't enough material to turn them. If the pads aren't worn then I would do several 65mph aggressive braking sessions over the next several drives to see how they look after.

Did you giver get your brakes greased. If you live where there’s salt on the roads they say to grease them at least every couple of years to prevent them sticking.

Lack of brake servicing can cause pads, and pistons, and glide bolts to stick. EV’s are some of the easiest vehicles to maintain, but if you drive in areas that salt a lot during the winter then you need to do an annual brake service. I sold my model 3 after five years with Oslo-winters and 60k miles on the odometer. Brakes looked almost like new. I do my own brake services in the spring when changing to summer tires, and I take the time to clean them properly. You can do it faster, but it’s not a huge hassle to do it yourself. Honestly one of the easiest things to do yourself and I get to do it on my time.

And that’s why I do my own brakes 🫠

Ok, then it's unclear exactly what you mean by rotor sticking out and causing grinding noise. What is the rotor grinding on? And where on the rotor are you saying it's grinding (use Snipping Tool in Windows and use the Arrows to point to the area.) The lubing is only the guide rails and this should be sealed in rubber and with the limited usage should never need to be re-lubed in the lifetime of the car, and shouldn't have caused a grinding sound even if it wasn't lubed as the movement is so small. Also, if there was some wear issue that isn't the pad on rotor (but something else on rotor) should be covered under waranty as it's not an expected wear item, but an abnormal wear due to unexpected contact.

Performance brakes are unfortunately not very good. Worse than Land Rover's. Unfortunately, you can't see the pads. From what you can see, the burnishing process in service mode would probably have been sufficient. Around 17-20 cycles.

do you have any tips/tutorials/videos on how to clean the brakes yourself during changing tires? I consider myself fairly handy but have never done it.

I greased them last year, not the yearly they suggest

https://preview.redd.it/ulb22o40takg1.jpeg?width=1320&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8fd7f97aabaa7e1ccd654d64ab4900d0a42b664b Get some coated rotors from Rockauto and a set of pads for less than $150.

Hit YouTube , pretty sure Electric Garage for one has a video showing it happen. However it’s a solid 6/10 on DIY difficulty, maybe higher because if you mess up braking that’s very bad, unsafe.

Same I have MY 60k miles daily driver and there still good 👍

Salt on roads does this to brake systems, used or not

thanks! i will take a look, yeah it's a bit daunting

>I’d upgrade the fluid and live the caliper bolts What are you talking about? Upgrade the fluid?? Lube the bolts??? Tesla’s recommendation is to service the brakes by cleaning any visible rust off using brake cleaner and a wire brush and to apply brake lubricant to the abutment flats. That’s it. In reality, that’s an entirely unnecessary service. The abutment flats don’t need to be re-lubricated if they’ve been properly lubricated during installation and you can use the brakes a few time and that rust will disappear. As for the brake fluid, Tesla recommends that it be tested every 4 years and replaced as needed. Again, in reality, this is unnecessary. Most vehicle’s run their entire life without ever having the brake fluid changed. If the fluid is low, then it needs to be topped off and checked for leaks. Otherwise, you can leave it alone. Crap like this is recommended purely to give the service centers more things to charge mechanically un-inclined people for and to give the manufacture more reasons to decline warranty claims.

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Good mechanical aptitude, experience & instruction will get you through. Just watch for overconfidence & you’ll be fine

Doesn't matter, the calipers get stuck from road gunk, rust, salt, etc. Happens to all cars if they brakes are lubed/serviced.

Those do not look like rotors that need to be replaced. That looks like standard oxidation of steel. I have an Audi Q5 and when there is moisture or build up on the rotors, it will squeal for the first several times they are used. I will actually apply the brake and drive to clear it up. As per the image, the rotor is "sticking out" which suggests that its warped somehow. I have had garages machine these flat for me -- essentially shaving off the high layer so that everythng is even.

go to a real brake place, have the rotors turned and pads replaced. cheap.

I decided to move forward with the service, this is the price I pay for not serving the brakes and working from home. This all started a a year ago after a snow storm and sitting for three weeks.

Ohhhh you insulted me on the internet. You must be so big and strong and brave! /s Get out of here dude. You so clearly don’t know what you’re talking about. The caliper doesn’t float, it’s securely bolted to the steering knuckle. The brake pads float between the caliper pistons and the rotor. It’s the contact points between the edge of the brake pads and the caliper (the abutment flats) that need to be lubricated. You are specifically advised not to lubricate the piston or the rear face of the break pads that contact the piston. You also should not lubricate the caliper bolts (which you appear to be confusing with the caliper piston) as these are the bolts that securely affix the caliper to the steering knuckle. You should put the opposite of lubricant on those bolts (Loctite). Jesus man. You’re the caricature of the mechanically ignorant Tesla owner. Do yourself a favor and don’t perform any mechanical work yourself. Also, since you’re wildly misplaced confidence will surely lead you to blindly argue this point further, here’s the service bulletin from Tesla: - https://service.tesla.com/docs/ModelY/ServiceManual/en-us/GUID-560908FA-972B-4ADC-9C29-DECF8D78D375.html

I watched some videos, looks like it's all about removing the two pins holding the brake pads in place, taking them out, cleaning/lubricating everything then putting the two pins back....seems not too complicated well the back is a bit more complex but still

You know that doesn't use the brakes right?

exactly. if you dont use regen braking the pads and rotors wear out quickly because electric cars are heavy.

The brakes aren't worn.

The mechanic seemed to mention a lip on the rotor, which would suggest otherwise. I'm not here to argue with you, I was trying to help? Are you okay? Go ahead and down vote this too weirdo

There is a lip from corrosion. Not wear, pretty clear to see from the photos no? But go ahead and refer to insults. Its the reddit way.

It is not clear from the photos.

130k miles into my 2023 m3 without any brake service and every day I leave the house I give em a couple hard brakes at 50 to clear the rust off 😂

How often is this needed? I use FSD a lot & I see it sometimes uses the brakes in addition to regen. Once a week or so I’ll get up to 45-50 MPH & bring it to a stop using around 75% of the brake power. Is that sufficient?

My MX rotors were good to 65k miles

Same. I’ll turn off regen and slam them

wait, you can turn off regen???

Well I turn it to the lightest setting in track mode. Sorry haven’t driven her in a few days

haha all good. Thought I’ve been missing something this whole time

There is a brake burnishing sequence in the owners manual

50 to 10, 6 times. Looks like I’ve been doing something right all along

I watched Eric O from South Main Auto [perform brake jobs](https://www.youtube.com/@SouthMainAuto/search?query=brake%20pads%20and%20rotors) to learn how to do them properly. He's also pretty entertaining. Same on an EV/Tesla as on a ICE car.

Very few places turn rotors anymore. It’s just as inexpensive to replace them and you don’t have to worry about measuring the rotors and wondering if they still have enough meat on them.

You can put the car in N while you're moving completely turns off regen. Just be ready to brake cause it freakin cruises without regen lol. Edit: Apparently they added a brake burnishing feature to service mode. Prob better to use that instead of just popping it into N.

the emergency brake system operates only on the rear brakes. Have you used the emergency brakes ?

The real problem is here - you hardly use your brakes, that causes problems in the braking system. The better habit is to use it every 3\~5 days, and at least one 30-0 mph hard brake once a week.

you can in service mode.

that's smart, popping into N is definitely faster and more convenient than burnish mode.

Unless you're out there like a maniac, there's no way brakes on an ev only last 40k

Use the brake burnishing service function monthly after fixing the current ones. I do this, and passed mot after 4 years and 130k kms with no mention to the condition of the brakes.

Wow! Mine look perfect on my 2021 M3 and I almost never use the brake pedal.

More likely what @darkload6505 said. Salt and snow on the road will create corrosion, and since it’s a Tesla you really don’t use the breaks as often compared to an ice car.

Those look fine. I would refuse to get them serviced at this time. After you get the car back, drive it up to about 40 mph and brake hard. Do this 5 times and see if the rotors clean off a bit.

You only need to do that weekly or monthly. Maybe you don't leave your house much.

They’re loud everyday. Heavy road salt and high humidity region so they flash rust

Oh gosh. Crazy. I never should have doubted you. My bad, and I'm sorry.


OP Is regeneration turned off?

2021 m3p 110k miles factory pads and rotors. Just use them once every now and then after hard sprints.

Same but I'm at 110k

Isn't there a feature that does that automatically, just because people so rarely use the friction brakes?

What are you talking about?!

The emergency braking system that most tesla owners don’t know it even exists. What do you do if your brake pedal goes to the floor and you can’t stop ?

You mean pressing and holding the P button? It does actuate the 4 brakes through ABS system.

You need to use your brakes more often.

I just got a Model Y 2023, and from what i can see the rear breaks looks very similar to my old Ford Focus 2014 breaks. I wore down break pads and a disc in a year because the piston had a little bit of corrosion and would not return correctly. I did the job myself in 2 hours and less than 1000 SEK in parts (100 eur/usd). Replacing the pads, disc and piston.

Well, the noise is back. Even after pads and rotors, I’m leaning towards the parking brake not fully disengaging.