Tesla Model 3 upgraded subwoofer

I’d just like to easily add a subwoofer to my LR RWD.

Same

ok

Now all we need is for someone to upgrade the suspension. The ride quality is awful

They did on the new ones supposedly.

Nice! What sub and amp are you using?

Wanted to piggy back on this. Any recs on springs and shocks to improve it?

Do it. So worth it.

I don’t even see it being common or an easily accessible option yet to add a subwoofer on Highland.

It was a little project. 23 M3 RWD. I added the harness for the pillar speakers which came with a sub kit. I didn’t use the sub but used the wiring to pass the signal to a 300 watt amp and 12” sub.

Yes get the highland springs and shocks. They fit right in and is way smoother

I was just checking on YouTube and this Alpine company (I don’t know them) they said they will launch a “plug and play” sub in the next few months for RWD

[Alpine](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpine_Electronics) is a long time player in car audio. Was a top name in bass comps back in the day when I used to hang in that space. [https://www.alpine-usa.com/products/vehicle-specific/tesla-subwoofers](https://www.alpine-usa.com/products/vehicle-specific/tesla-subwoofers) Thats the 8" replacment so I hoping they do!

no camber adjustments or anything? Just plug and play?

yeah I just installed the harness on my 22 m3 rwd. My OEM LR Subwoofer just came last week. Next step is modifiying the harness to get the woofer signal and wire it back to an kicker amp to power the oem sub. Installation is in the oem closet. So no visible sub.

any sort of info or description would add value to this post.

Hefty subwoofer in stock enclosure with monoblock added. Not much more than that. Not dialed in so does not sound pretty yet but plenty of bass

Belive so! but check first. It's a pretty common mod. If my shocks fail one day i will add the highland ones

DD Audio 208e-D4 8" and Edge EDB500.1-E9. Probably not the best choice but it was super cheap

what sub? was adding the monoblock difficult or is it largely plug and play?

I also have a 23 M3 RWD and purchased the same harness but have yet to install it after reading on here it could potentially cause MCU issues if you blast your music full volume without an amp installed (since allegedly the MCU is the amp on RWD models and can get overloaded power-wise with the extra speakers being activated)…so have you had any issues with your MCU rebooting at full volume?

No problems two and half years later. The Hanshow harness had wiring going to their sub. Maybe those sub wire were coming from the right speaker or source in the MCU. I did hear that if you use too big of an amp, it could draw too much power and cause issues. I’m using a Taramps Bass 400 2 Ohms, 12” Pioneer sub that fits perfectly in the sub truck storage. Can’t see any.

Thanks for confirming and providing the parts used in your setup - I’ll take a look into them!

I have same setup. Skar 8 inch with a Skar 500W amp and L2ci LOC. It has power and shakes the car but can’t tune it to my liking. I think the plastic enclosure is too small for it. Just can’t get it right

Hey how's it going? I have a '22 model 3 RWD as well. Could I bug you on the process/steps of this upgrade? It's the next thing I want to do. But some people say there isn't enough power? I love DIYing so this would be a new lesson for me

Volumetrics of that ported box is way too small for that, gonna sound like shit regardless what you do.

Yeah port is probably bad design for a hefty woofer, but it actually does not sound that bad. Goes really deep compared to the stock one

Monoblock is simple. you need to cut the original speaker cable and connect to the amp in some way, or even better through an active high-low converter. And get power from under the seat (some more work might be needed on the 16V cars, but old 12V like mine works fine with that)

yeah the enclosure is probably to small and simple. Have you tried to fill up with poly-fill or something? I am struggeling a bit getting the phase adjustet right. it seems to cancel out the door woofers a bit no mather what i do.

I did yeah. I tried to seal the port and put some sound proofing foam inside but like you said it’s cancelling out the door woofers. It drove me crazy cuz I could only hear the sub from back. I had to put the OEM sub back and replaced the front door woofer with Dayton Sig180 and it is a lot better and balanced. You will need a DSP for the sub. IM saving up for a DSP then I’ll put Skar back in. It just wasn’t hitting the bass right at all.

I actually got it to play pretty good using the nvx xlca2. not sure what it does different but it does make but the bass hits right after installing that. However the plastic box is falling appart from the added pressure.. So i will be putting the stock woofer back and set the new one in a small box in the sub-trunk.. Will see how that sounds but i got a box that is tuned to about the same freqency as the stock is so might be nice.

Nice. I actually had a dual setup before too. I had the Skar 10 inch with Skar enclosure on the drivers side and had the stock sub with original enclosure but couldn’t get it right. It was way too powerful drowned out the vocals. Now i removed everything and just replaced the stock sub with Alpine W8D4 which directly fits into the enclosure and using the stock amp. It is good - deeper, not boomy but again sounds like it’s only coming from the rear so im assuming it’s cancelling out with door woofers. I might just put a dsp and amp just for the alpine sub and tune that because no matter what i do it doesn’t sound good as the stock sub sound profile. Little boomy but deep

Strange with the phase issues. When using the original signal through an LOC and amp it should only add like 2-4 degrees of phase error and that should not really mather that much. Maybe your potmeters are bad? I have adjusted alot on mine back and forth so it can also be the source that made it good now. i have it at 0% and bass hits perfect but when i first installed it phase was off when at 0%. But i did also use the amplifiers high-level converter then and not a dedicated one like the NVX.. It might be a bad built-in converter (considering the amp price i am not surprised) but you are using an even better LOC than me.

It could be. I’ve basically been adjusting them like every day cuz somehow it sounds different every time lol. I think I will go back to your setup with the stock bass and external sub. It’s the best of both worlds. Stock sub is tuned very well just not deep. Maybe just get another sub that is deep. Which one did u end up getting? Like the one that’s goes in the sub trunk facing upwards ?