What was the concern.
Well lfp likes to be charged to 100% and I live in an apartment so every time I supercharge I charge to 100 instead of just stopping at 80 and heat pump over no heat pump.... Heat pump is amazing. I basically have lost 0 range in the winter keeping my car warm and it's only costs me like 5 km to preheat the cabin
Efficiently king. While my ‘21 SR+ wasn’t an LFP, the 100% charging ability makes your LFP better in my opinion. Heat pump efficiency is very impressive.
What was the concern with the heat pump, I don’t think it has any downsides. Oh no, the car is more efficient than before.
Some people said going long range with no heat pump was better because originally I was thinking an older model long range AWD with no heat pump. I'm glad I went newer with heat pump
I just upgraded from a 2017 M3 and have not noticed any difference in the heat so far.
Interesting. I can preheat my cabin without being plugged in and keep the temp on when I get out of the car for like an hour and barely use any range
Mines older and NMC. No heat pump. Noticed it today with it being cold but planned ahead to charge to 100 instead of 80%. But charging at home currently on 16amp 3.6kw. so it's ok. Due to goto 32amp 7.2 soon tho. Just for the speed increase
Oh I see
I use mostly super charges from a 20 % to full charge. It's been 2 weeks now and it seems to be working out fine
LFP, like any lithium battery, is happiest between 20-80% but you can charge it to 100% as it tolerates it better than the NMC cells. For longest life though maybe once a week or 2 to 100 for calibration reasons unless you need that much. Last bits of charging is slow so would make your SC visits shorter too
It's not that it likes to be charged to 100%. The LFP controller needs a little help. You can charge it to 100 once a week or even less often to reset the computer. The range calculation is based on metering the kwh consumed and extrapolating the probable condition of the battery with the total kwh the battery holds when full, minus all the kwh spent since the last time it was full, plus all the kwh charged. The battery voltage is flat throughout its range except at full/ near-empty so it's not possible to figure out the battery state of charge in the middles. NMC voltage has a ramp from empty to full so it's easy to know by simple sample. This goes both ways, discharge and charge. Thus, if you charge only to "80" all the time, the calculation will be off farther and farther - what is 80 percent? How accurate is the metering? How much is left??? Hence, the 100 reset once a week - fail to do so and stranding is possible! A definite drawback to LFP.
It's a drawback when it comes to BMS calibration. On the other hand you don't lose practically any power due to lower SOC because of the flat voltage curve.
Ya I only charge once or twice a week so that's why I just go to 100% . I heard the non lfp batteries like short burst while this battery likes long ones so I wait till it's down to 20% before I charge it
I wonder if at the very end of either the NMC vs LFP battery's life which is worth more as salvage? Or perhaps the question is, which makes more waste to dispose of?
Well, it can’t use all the wasted energy from the gas engine to heat the car, so it has to do something. My first M3 had electric heat, and it was the first part to go. Heat pumps are great - plus you don’t have to wait for the car to warm up to warm up the car.
I'm enjoying my heat pump a lot
I have lfp and first ev and all this battery talk is headache lol So your saying just wait till you go to 20% and then recharge to 100% all time? What is this heat pump situation. I’m trying to figure it out can you explain I have 100 mile commute daily so I go from like 255 full charge to 155 then I recharge supercharger (hardwired charger installing this month) So what you reccomend boss?
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