Atto 3 disappointing range

Highway driving is much worse than city in my sl7. Not that much dif though.

Yes. The Atto 3 is a brick and if you go faster you use more energy.

What speed were you going. If you sat on 70km/hr I am sure you would have made it.

Dunno specifically to Atto but first few long highway trips I did with Seal I was pretty disappointed but made some adjustments that made a huge difference *Doing 95 in 100 zone instead of 105 *Turning regen braking onto lower setting *driving in eco mode *conditioning the car when it was still plugged in *using cruise control almost exclusively *not blasting ac at 21° throughout trip Compared to not doing those things I got about a 20% boost with actual being pretty close to the claimed range (achieved about 530km vs 570 claimed) All of that might be a bit extreme as I was testing to see what the effect would be but consider how much using sport mode/ zooming off lights/ etc definitely has on draining range on long trips Edit: a lot of absolutely triggered lunatics getting wound up by imaginary scenarios of EVs slowing traffic 😆😆 Purpose of above was just to demonstrate these are the things that can assist maximise range not a bible you must always follow - knowledge and modify accordingly

For my Atto 3 I usually do battery percent x 3 for highway driving and x 4 for more urban driving. I recommend using abrp (a better route planner) for road trips though. I've found it pretty accurate. Just remember to stay to the speed limits. Even going 115 instead of 110 can make a significant difference in range over a long distance.

I’ve noticed even if you only think about sport mode then the battery drops 20%. Slow eco mode driving around a city should get you close to 480km

Hills, climate control and 100+kph speed will reduce your range. If you were using AWD, that will reduce your range. This is with ALL EVs in general and not specific to your model.

Please don't be the guy doing 5Km/h under on long country roads when it's busy or difficult to overtake. Especially if you're basing that on the car's speedometer, because then you're actually doing closer to 10Km/h under, if not slower [(as per Australian Design Rules)](https://www.safetyaction.com.au/blog/how-accurate-is-your-speedo). I implore everyone to not to let EVs gain the same reputation as caravans. EVs get enough hate already. Don't go slowing down traffic to save yourself an extra stop.

480km is completely unrealistic on freeway. I calculate a maximum range of freeway driving based on 20kwh/100km which would equal 300km. You’ll probably get a little further 310-330 depending on conditions though. 480km out of a 60kwh battery would require averaging 12.5kwh/100km which would likely be feasible for city driving/slow speed.

Why set regen to low? What does conditioning the car mean?

At ~115km/h, 5km over the limit, I can get around 330-350km in QLD. I usually consider 300km is the limit to have a bit of a buffer. You were probably going faster or uphill. There needs to be more transparency and education around the range. 480km is a NEDC range and is done in a lab for a short period is not an unrealistic number, if you drive in the city only you can easily drive 400km. From experience the realistic range is 80-90% of WLTP, a more realistic testing method. for Atto 3 the WLTP is 420km.

Regen relates to regenerative braking which puts charge back into the battery (my car has only 1 setting so can't answer to "low"). Conditioning means heating or aircon while the car is plugged into the wall so effectively using grid power to prepare the cabin (and probably the battery temp as well).

lol sitting in the left lane of a three lane highway 2-3k below posted speed limit doesn’t make a problem for anyone In practice I’m going the flow of traffic and then occasionally overtake anyone in that lane going slower as needed. It made me about 4 minutes delayed on a 3 hour journey I think you’re over thinking it a bit but as I said I did that one journey to test the limits.. I understand that with EVs the tipping point to efficiency drag is about 100km so I’d likely stick to that anyway But anything over, 105/110 or lead footing over taking in sport mode absolutely burns range at an exponential rate

Thanks. But why set regen to low. If you want to "charge" a little while breaking, going down hills, you'd want that set to high so you can go a little further surely.

Yep like the other person said Getting your battery up to temperature and your car cooling / heating for first few km to get to desired temp actually burns a relatively high amount of power to start I believe even just letting those things happen by turning it on remotely 10 minutes before even if not plugged in is more efficient than doing it while driving but could be wrong on that So I either set the departure timer or flick it on in the app 10-15 before I go And regen breaking if you have it set to high unless you’re on twisty, steep mountain roads you’re actually going to expend more energy punching back out of the regen “retardation” than you would gain from it being on the higher regen rate if that makes sense

See my response below You can turn it off, low or high I think the material gain from it in BYD is pretty low either way I guess technically you could fiddle around with it mid drive it and turn it up higher when you go down certain terrain but I don’t think you’d get much actual benefit out of it to bother compared to having it on lower setting

Good on the cabin prep/battery temp. But I'm still really surprised on the regen factor. I'd be really interested in the science/maths on that one.

If you're in the left lane of a three-way highway with no traffic behind you, then yeah, go for it. But that's not the situation I mentioned. And again, if you're doing 3Km/h under based on your cars speedometer, keep in mind that you're actually doing 8Km/h under the limit, if not slower. Not great.

I have a Chery Omoda E5 (similar size / battery / motor) and if i drive at 110km/h to mum and dad's place I will use anywhere between 180Wh/km to 200Wh/km. If i drop my speed to 100km/h and gradually power up and down, then it drops to 150Wh-160Wh. You can't just drive an EV like you stole it and expect to maintain range. As for sitting below the speed limit, that's not a you problem. You're 100% allowed to not travel at 110km/h on highways.

Please don't be that guy that sits right up my arse because i refuse to drive as fast as you'd like me to. I will slow myself down to 100km/h on my speedo (Sure, i'm doing 96 in a 110 zone, but there's overtaking lanes, right lanes, middle and right lanes, etc) - if you get upset about this, then its time for you to hand your license in for being a rager.

Dont be that guy. Keep up to the posted speed limit.

315km is bang on for mostly highway driving. You can change the instrument cluster to display your energy consumption over the last 50km when you have a stable stretch of driving and then do the arithmetic to work out your real-life range. You have a 60kwh hour battery so if it shows you "16 kwh / 100km" you do "60 ➗ 16 x 100" to get your real-world range. I've also got an Atto and I get: \* 500km range on single-lane country roads (flat or mild slopes, minor curves, 80km/h) \* 375km range city driving. (50-60km/h top speed, lots of start/stop traffic, mild slopes) \* 300km range highway driving at 110km/h. Road trips are usually mix of these conditions so I average it out in my head to between 280 to 300km between charge stops. [https://abetterrouteplanner.com/](https://abetterrouteplanner.com/) will do this for you, it's pretty accurate and accounts for elevation change. (E.g. you burn more going uphill but regen some of it going downhill) My experience is that drive mode and regen setting change the feel of the car a bit but have no minimal impact on efficiency. It's in my opinion a serious design flaw of the BYD vehicles that they make the 'remaining km' so prominent when it's so useless. (I am a little curious how you managed to end up owning an Atto without coming across this information. I'm pretty sure I was warned about it at the show room during the test drive!)

Who the hell said anything about getting up your arse?! That's also unacceptable behaviour. But please, don't go doing 96 in a 110 zone. Especially if you know that you're holding people up. Even if for no other reason than it's a safety hazard. Again, if there's overtaking lanes and there's no traffic build up, then fine, do what you want, but otherwise, don't be that guy.

This is the way. Drag increases exponentially on highways. Sticking to 95-100 seems to be the sweet spot for energy efficiency.  My MG4 gets near enough to the stated range by doing all of this.

I’m that guy. Back off! Don’t like it? Too bad, wait for a safe overtaking opportunity. You’re not that important that the world can’t cope with you getting somewhere a few minutes later than you wanted.

Had an Atto 3 for nearly three years. Live in Dubbo, family on the coast. We've done numerous trips. Best range. 405km. Worst. 280km. Factors affecting range are numerous. Rain, headwind, road conditions, traffic, temperature and whether or not my wife is driving.

Oh, but you're important enough to hold up every single car stuck behind you. That's what I call being a selfish prick. Just do the agreed speed FFS. When everyone does the same speed everything flows nicely, but chuck a few of you guys in there and the whole thing becomes an absolute mess. You don't notice it because you've got heaps of room in front of you. But I guarantee you, everyone stuck behind you notices.

How does lowering regen braking assist range?

I will be "that guy" - I see the limit as exactly that, a limit not a minimum speed to use this road. What driving 10km/h below the limit gives me: greater range / fuel economy more reaction distance in case of an emergency if i need to overtake someone, there's still 10km/h of oomph i can use without breaking the law and there's very little chance i'll get s speeding fine for gliding down hill at 113km/h ...

No, I think in this case it could also mean conditioning the battery before charging to speed it up.

My ice engined cars fuel economy hardly changes with ac on cruise on 110 and still gets over 900klm on 55ltrs of diesel. Electric cars have a long way to go

I wouldn’t go 96 in 110 zone I said 96 in 100 Princes highway, Wollongong to Batemans bay is almost all 100 which is the stretch I was referring to But go off on a made up problem hey

You can call me whatever you like, you will wait until there is a safe overtaking opportunity. Cope with it.

I agree, it is an upper limit. If the weather or road conditions aren't conducive to driving at the limit, then you're meant to (and should) slow down. You should also always maintain a safe distance to the car in front. Always! But if the road conditions are good, and there's other cars around, then you should endeavor to do the same speed as everyone else, i.e. the speed limit. Traffic flows better and is safer when everyone's doing the same speed. It's also just considerate to other drivers.

Err... No: >Sure, i'm doing 96 in a 110 zone, I'm just going off what you said.

This is why we can't have nice things.

You’ll be ok, I promise this won’t stop you getting to where you need to go.

A safe overtaking opportunity, what then you speed up till the other lane ends & slow down again

As I am just considering MY drive, which is outer suburban to rural, multi-lane freeway, 100/80/110 speed limits, if i sit on 100kmh in the left lane, the only time i'm blocking traffic is when i'm being overtaken or when i slow to 80km/h. At those times, i don't give any sort of fuck about anyone - I'm doing a consistent and predictable movements, safer than some goose drying to maintain 110km/h and weaving around traffic.

The ABRP website is really handy and I’ve also found it to be pretty accurate. While it’s not 100% it’s a good indicator.

I actually agree with the point you're making, but you're being an AH about it and deserve the reaction you're getting.

Where did I say that

Regen is literally a brake - stronger regen means it’s stronger in the brake and thus will slow you down quicker and harder.. meaning you need to exert more power to punch back out of it EVs (all cars) work most efficiently driving smoothly with the least accelerate/decelerate variances.. seems pretty logical to me?

Oh, that wasn't you. Well, it seems we both could benefit from reading through this thread more carefully.

Read the above comments - unless you’re descending a steep mountain strong regen is likely doing more to slow you down requiring more use of power to punch back up to speed than it’s generating in power… when really you’re looking for a ride to have the least amount of deceleration/acceleration as possible over the journey Put another way Going down a hill might generate 30kw on high regen or 15kw on low for a few moments But if the 30kw high then needs me to expend 100kw to recover the speed it lost compared to lower maintaining close to speed limit requiring 8kw to gently ease back up it’s not a net benefit

Also how many people in the car and amount of luggage.

As I drive a Tesla model Y, I was curious to see if this applies to my vehicle. I asked ChatGPT so apply all necessary skepticism: “✔ The BYD Atto advice can make sense for EVs with crude or fixed regen ❌ It does not translate well to a Tesla Model Y ✔ High regen does not reduce range unless the driver misuses it ✔ You can’t “out-optimise” Tesla’s regen logic with a settings change”

Nah chief, YOU'RE not that important

Thanks. Don’t care about the reaction.

I have no intention of speeding up at all. I’m comfortable with my speed.

I don’t think you realise how dangerous you’re being on the road

ICE and EV cars have pretty much opposite efficiency uses. EVs are most efficient in the city with stop-and-go traffic. They're significantly less efficient at highway speeds. ICE cars are most efficient at 100-110kph. They're significantly less efficient in city traffic.

I’m not being dangerous on the road. I am driving at a reasonable and consistent speed. You’re more than welcome to overtake me safely and within the speed limit.

They added 6 new tesla chargers that are open for everyone in busselton but there really isnt enough along the way the other big set in bunbury are not open to all only tesla and then you are looking at the bp pulse chargers which are just out of perth.

I love this, people on here are so upset that you do a safe and consistent speed on the highway! 100 in 110 is perfectly fine. I also assume my speedo is the speed i'm allowed to do, i'm not getting a GPS device to ensure that my landspeed time is precise to the GPS.

If I sit on 110km/h on my speedo in a 110 zone, you'd still complain, right?

https://preview.redd.it/rzjrcdbw6mbg1.jpeg?width=613&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf594a2a02435f1a3927edf602836973aa90a665 Fair enough Seal has the option to toggle

Bad driver traits: - Everyone should drive like me - drive faster, it’s safer - Get out of my way! - I refuse to believe I’m a bad driver. Everyone who doesn’t agree with me is wrong.

You forgot about “flashing my lights will make this person do what i like!”

I've done 10 hours of country driving this week. People like you create unsafe situations on these roads. I'll be sitting back in a queue of 10 cars when that overtaking lane comes up, watching the absolute chaos as they all try to scramble past you and creating a huge amount of risk as the lane ends (yes, they're shit drivers, but your slowness has exacerbated the problem). Then the few of us that saw this all coming get to sit behind your slow ass waiting for the next opportunity as you potter along trying to break the efficiency record. Thanks bud. If you can't drive at 110 in a 110 zone because your piece of shit EV gives you range anxiety, perhaps you should get a real car.

You control the amount of Regen with your throttle. Very rarely will I actually take my foot fully off the accelerator pedal.

Doing 95 on long country roads ain’t the problem, the problem is when the overtaking lane comes they speed up to 115, they are the issue.

Dude, I'm doing the same speed as a truck or (in WA) any vehicle that is towing. I'm allowed to do 100, and you're allowed to be a fuckhead.

Exactly the kind of reaction you'd expect from a main character.

Maybe just you

Your actual range will be affected by several factors: Firstly EVs, unlike ICE cars, are less efficient at long range. So expect some over estimation just on that. Secondly, your stated range is based on the car being in a place between 17c to 25c. Outside that window and your car has to expend energy to keep the battery warm/cold. Add to that that you likely use even more energy to do the same for the cabin. At 0c or 40c you can expect to get about 80% of the stated range.

SPEED has a lot to do with consumption. You get much better economy at 90/100kph

You are being dangerous. The fact that you can’t see that is even more worrying.

The fact that you think driving anything less than the posted speed limit is dangerous is a concern. You know, sometimes i don't even get to 50km/h in residential streets either!

Are you they guy in the overtaking lane?

Why would i go in the overtaking lane? if i’m overtaking i’ll speed up to 110 and pass, but normally, no. You’re the one who wants to speed.

Going 96 on your speedo in 100km zone is uncalled for, go the speed limit

These people holding everyone up are power trip Karen's, there is no reasoning with them. When some stressed out person passes 5 cars to get round and loses it, they feign no blame

Before I changed to a Tesla 3 LR in 2021, I drove a 2013 Mazda 6 Atenza Diesel. It would do 1000km on a full tank once I got out of the city and onto the highways. Around the city it was a guzzler due to its weight and twin turbos. (Of which I went through 3, two within warranty). It had a dog of a tomtom gps and awful Bluetooth connectivity. The Tesla was a revelation by comparison. No going back although I see Mazda had combined with another Chinese company to produce a 6E which is getting nice reviews, at least for its sumptuous interior.

Just hand back your licence. Most speed limits are already conservative, no need to add your own stupid buffer on top /going against the grain. People like you are worse than those speeding.

It forces all the trucks into the middle lane & a lot of highway is 2 lanes wide at best, so the right lane. Can guarantee everyone on the road hates this guy.

Drag increases by the square of speed. Slipperiness is coveted in the EV world as is battery efficiency. It’s ironic a major battery maker like BYD scores poorly against Tesla when it comes to efficiency.

lol I love you’re getting wound up about an imaginary situation you’re not in When I did the trip I mentioned I was moderately faster than everyone in left hand land and over took them as needed What are you even talking about 😆😆

Dunno how true it is but I’ve seen it said in a few places that BYD strategy is to make their cars almost as ICE like as possible to drive and look so that perhaps negates a proper ground up EV? But you’re right seems a bit strange if it’s an EV/ battery company in the first place

If you are unable to drive to the conditions in an acceptable manner then you really ought to hand your licence in.

I’ve seen the same written and spoken about. Tesla from the get go went out of its way to declare its EV credentials and it was solidified in 2018 with the Model 3 without a grill, and the single centre screen, both of which scream “I’m not your dad’s car”.

Lol doesn't affect me, I holiday in the 4x4 and happy to park the bullbar 2 inches off the person in fronts bumper.

I'll do that! Tomorrow, ok? Just gotta piss off a few more keyboard warriors :)

I doubt anyone is really pissed off, just a bit dismayed that people who clearly can't drive are offering driving advice lol.

There isn't a single ev out there that does the range they say they will as there are too many factors involved it's the same with published mpg for ice cars it's never accurate

Was offering methods of making it to the next charging point, and travelling at 100km/h uses substantionally less bzzt.

Very valid points Enhanced Gibbon. For my antidotal evaluation here in W.A I regularly use the Albany HWY. On this road I’ll sit on 112 according to GPS and when an overtaking lane comes up I still get a mad rush of people overtaking. This happens very frequently. I just turn off cruise control, back off and let the world go by. Chill out and enjoy the Journey, it’s not only about the destination.

Offering poor driving advice, exactly what I said, cheers.

Lol bizarre downvotes trucks are like always going lower than the speed limits on the left lane?

Alright mate, I'll drive how i wish to drive, you can abuse me from behind your steering wheel like a big boy.

I’ve got an Atto 3 with the larger battery and bank on about 300km range if highway driving. If you can find a semi to slip stream you might increase that slightly.

I've no doubt you will drive how you wish, literally changes nothing though. Don't take it too personally, there are plenty of other drivers like yourself who aren't capable of driving to the conditions who also have a complete disregard for other drivers. Funny comment though as I'd imagine it'll be you doing the yelling and carrying on when people are "tailgating" you, which of course they aren't, they're just driving within their ability behind someone who can't drive properly.

Now you’re getting it. NOBODY is so important that they get their way all the time. It’s about coping with the conditions around you. Being an adult is hard sometimes.

You said "5km/h under speed limit" in the other comment and now you say 96 in 110 zone. Going 5 or 10 under the speed limit is fine as long as they don't speed up when people are about to overtake. The problem is people with road rage like you on the road.

If I understand correctly, brake pedals on Tesla vehicles don't do 'blended' regen/physical braking. If you touch the brake pedal to slow down you're missing energy recovery. BYD vehicles (and any other model that does blended braking) use the same pedal to apply regen as much as possible and then switch to physical braking if you still need more stoping power. Even with regen on 'normal', pressing the brake pedal lightly will increase the amount of regen applied. In theory, for a BYD car, there's no difference in the amount of energy you can reclaim through regen whether you set the car to 'standard' or 'high'. What changes is touch you need on the pedal to achieve that result. Personally, I experience worse energy efficiency when I set my BYD regen to high because I'm not practiced at feathering the accelerator to coast, so I'm constantly doing micro adjustments. Speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down.

Higher braking regen reduces your range?

This is effectively dangerous

SL7 Perf here, currently on a trip to Denmark/Albany (via Albany hwy) and surrounds, normal mode, a/c @23, weather mid 30’s, windy close to the coast, cruise set at 115 (112 on gps), foot flat when passing anything, average consumption for the last 630km worked out at 36km/10% battery, for a net range of 324km with 10% battery remaining at destination. Hope that helps.

Correct. Tesla (Model Y and others) • Brake pedal is not blended in normal driving • Lifting the accelerator = regen (up to system limits) • Pressing the brake pedal = friction brakes • Result: regen is 100% under the driver’s right foot Tesla’s philosophy: “If you want regen, lift. If you want braking, brake.” For me, it gives predictable, repeatable control and avoids ambiguity about what the car is doing. You’re actually feathering your power input and can become remarkably accurate in a very short space of time when coming to a stop on accelerator alone.

So you add another name to ev drivers which is entitled ev driver. The knockers would love that. You really don’t understand safety at all do you.

Well... I'm about to rent a Model Y for a two week road-trip starting tomorrow! (Only EV rental available that would fit my luggage). I guess I'm about to learn pedal control trial-by-fire.

Not sure the savings at the charger will keep up with your windscreen consumption rate though … :)

Completely normal at highway speeds

The Y allows you some control over regen. You can have the loan Y perform like a regular automatic where it will creep forward unless you keep your foot on the brake or you can have it so it holds on a steep hill without using a handbrake (it has none) or keeping your brake depressed. Nor do you need to keep the car revving as you do in a Manual car with a handbrake hill start. Before you start your journey study the onscreen manual to learn about these settings then go for a short drive somewhere and test out your preferences. But do give one pedal driving a chance.

Nice. I didn’t know that. Handy.

rain shaggy abounding cows fear chief wipe reach angle work *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev/home)*

coordinated steer test weather spoon bells smart relieved nutty jellyfish *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev/home)*

thought money nutty abundant fuzzy run ghost racial sharp pie *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev/home)*

cake many instinctive languid plucky abounding coordinated axiomatic wakeful deliver *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev/home)*

That should have worked out at about 19kWh per 100km on your display. Is that correct? Sounds about right for an Atto I would think. It's a bit of a blunt instrument with a CD of 0.29. Did you go at 110, or step it up a bit? 110 uses about 22% more energy than 100. I find I always use more going South than on the return trip. The Forrest Hwy adds at least a couple of kWh/100km once I hit the really coarse part, which is most of it. In this current weather, my Tesla Model 3 LR would get around 16-18kWh/100km at 110km/h and my current car, a Mercedes EQE is around 21. Check out evdatabase.org. It has realistic ranges and energy usages for nearly every model we have in Australia. It rates the Atto3 extended range at 310km in mild weather at 110km/h, so you are bang on the money.

I just drove to Adelaide to back in the Atto3 from Perth. I made sure to charge up every 200 to 250 km or so. At the speed limit with the aircon on full you needed to. Slowed down on some stretches for roos or to get extra mileage. There was no traffic so no-one was held up behind me. I think you can only get near the “battery range” at 60 to 70 km per hour. Charging infrastructure is great in South Australia all the way to the WA border. On the WA side it’s pretty bad between Norseman and the border. - Balladonia, fast charger didn’t work. Entire station broken. Had to use 20kw charger at $2.00 kw during daylight hours - Caiguna, was the only good one. - Madura, very slow charging. - Mundrabilla. I tripped the entire roadhouse twice on the fast charger! I used the slower 6kW type 2 charger to avoid further grumpiness. For good measure, the Northam charger was vandalised and inoperable. The Southern Cross charger worked but the screen seems to have been destroyed by the directly sunlight on it. Still a fun trip though. -

FYI you can 100% get a fine for not doing the speed limit without a good reason. Being a hazard (eg doing 20km/h under the limit on an open freeway with no reason for going slower) is a finable offence.

Which is ridiculously ridiculously dangerous. I’m not a fan of someone going under the speed limit but you’re driving like an absolute asshole and risking lives while doing it.

It sure is! Tell me one police officer / judge that is going to enforce the law vs a driver doing 100kmh in a 110 zone?

Why on Earth do you think I'm road raging?! What gave you that impression? And if you actually read the comment I'm replying to, you'll notice I'm quoting the 96 in a 110 zone.

Depends on the speed you’re driving at.

>they speed up the person being discussed is setting their cruise control at an appropriate speed to improve efficiency. *They* aren't speeding up for anything

I realise that, all I am saying doing 95 on a 100 country road isn’t an issue. The bigger issue are the ones that speed up when being overtaken.

Tailgaters deserve something I can't really write here

Yes very normal. WLTP range estimates are if your car is doing like 60kph on a controlled track. EV's are also more efficient around town because you get the benefits of Regen braking. On a highway run you don't get much Regen if anything and at higher speeds your car has a lot of wind resistance. So unlike ICE cars which are more efficient on the highway.. EV's are less efficient. But 99% of most driving is commuting short distances around town. I always take about 1/3 of the range claim at highway speeds which seems to be about what you got.

Hi, speed limit is a *maximum*, not a *minimum*.

What about the unexpected weather conditions like rain and storms, where you have to use both wipers and headlights along with windshield demister constantly?

Except you don't realise how many idiots constantly keep driving under speed in the overtaking lane. They don't realise that the overtaking lane is to overtake and then get back in the left lane.

95 comments because I said driving at 95 instead of 105 in a 100 zone is more efficient 😆😆

If you can't maintain 110KM/H on a country road your a danger to everyone on the road and should hand in your licence.

Except they're not doing it by choice. It's like how you don't blame someone with Tourette's even though what they're doing is otherwise socially unacceptable and disruptive.

No way!??

You are stuck behind this guy or a truck, it is the same inconvenience. This guy goes 100, you still are eventually behind a truck.

Ideally, you should endeavour to never block the flow of traffic. There wouldn't be any traffic to go around if everyone's maintaining the same speed. I'm not saying it's as dangerous as speeding because it's not. When you're speeding you've got less reaction time and the energy of your vehicle is higher. However, it is still more dangerous than if everyone just sticks at the speed limit and lets the traffic flow freely without obstruction. There's way too many dashcam videos showing crashes involving the few people who fail to maintain the correct speed. And more than just the safety concerns, it's simply inconsiderate to other drivers.

It's not a physical brake though. The magnets in the motor just act as a brake when the motor isn't being powered. So while driving on the highway at a constant speed there should be no impact from a regen setting as the motor will almost always be powered. Going downhill is the exception, the car will then use regen braking to maintain the set speed and charge the battery but this should be helpful to range if anything.

Not on the highway only but over the course of a journey with various peaks and troughs unless descending down for long periods it’s more efficient to use lighter setting dunnno what to tell ya 🤷‍♂️

@bumskins thinks it's funny. Don't see how.

Yes I am learning with experience. I stayed close to speed limit of 100/110

It was disappointing there were no chargers between Bunbury and Manjimup.

Dude, i’m not doing 40 on the freeway (unless the reds and blues are there) i’m doing 100 - perfectly reasonable speed.

Thanks this is helpful. "You can change the instrument cluster to display your energy consumption over the last 50km" How do you do this? ABRP shows I should have arrived with 10% battery! Which is what I was expecting.

Just out of curiosity, how are you measuring your speed? Are you going off what it says on the speedo?

I keep in eco mode and never get close to 480km. More like 400km.

Yes sounds like a good rule of thumb. I was on/below speed limits all the way. ABRP indicated I should arrive at 10% level.

Oh, A/C off?

If you're in WA this isn't imaginary. Assholes will hold up an ambo in 110 to cruise like a dick at 80.

>Sure, i'm doing 96 in a 110 zone .... > its time for you to hand your license

hahahah.

Headlight and wiper drain is minimal. The main drag in rain is from the tyres pumping all that water out of the way.

The Treendale chargers are due to reopen soon I hear.

Works out at 227Wh/km on this numbers.

It's hard to describe without reference to a photo which I can't take since I'm travelling now.  But from memory you press the button on the bottom left side of the right steering wheel button cluster to go into "select" mode then use the up/down button to select it then press the button on the bottom right side of the right button cluster to lock it in. The display keeps resetting to the default after a while, so I've got quite good at changing this blind and do it from muscle memory now!

Ac at 21 is heating 😭

We love our Atto, but you do have to plan ahead

[deleted]

Sure, and you consider 100 in a 110 zone as unreasonable? Do you think a court or police officer would think the same?

[deleted]

Fuck, I drove 90km/h down the Hume the other week because i didn't trust the car to stop in time if someone made a stupid mistake in front of me. It was not unreasonably slow, it did not obstruct traffic. People just passed me ?

AC on 24 as it is hot in Perth

That might account for the gap, these estimates don’t seem to include cabin heating/cooling. I measured it once (but not in an Atto 3). I lost 30% battery waiting 8h in a hospital car park with the a/c on.

I think a lot of people don't consider that everything being used by the car is also draining your battery/range Aircon on? Draining Headlights on? Even on auto Draining Electric dash display? Draining Infotainment system on? Draining GPS on? Draining Car has a Sim card? Draining Indicators being used? Draining Charging your phone? Draining Generally the range testing is done under very controlled conditions and everything but the car itself either is off/disconnected or hasn't been added yet

Our 2.1 diesel Merc has a 5.2L/100km official rating and a real world recorded figure over last decade of around 9.6. That drops an effective range of around 1000km to 550km… at least you only lost 1/3 of the manufacturers figures…

Get used to it, lol

They already have.

Highway driving has much worse efficiency for EVs compared to normal suburb driving  The range indicator is a guesstimation based on your current average Km/kwh rate (or kwh/100km rate)  ICE cars on the other hand have bad efficiency in normal traffic, but get better on highways Our overall average is 6.8km/kwh. We drove to Port Vincent recently which was 222km and mostly 100/110 driving and the average for that trip was 5.7 (not BYD but KIA)

You don’t get far out of town do you? OP was down south and you’re talking three lane highways. They run out pretty quickly when s/he was looking 320-330kms away from a charger

Like theoretical speeds of the latest USB standard, EV expected range figures on a single charge can be affected by many factors and should only be used as a guideline and not seen as reality

Hey, putting everyone assmad about your left lane speeds aside, I have a question: Why would putting your regen braking on the lower setting help? I’ve only just got myself an ATTO 2 in the last few weeks, I’m very new to this. Edit: Never mind sorry, I saw your answers further down thread

Maintaining extra distance to the car in front is very different than going so slow that people are overtaking you.

Not true. ICE cars are typically most efficient around 60Km/h. The laws of aerodynamics don't change depending on what's putting power to the wheels. The only thing that's different about ICE cars is they have a higher idle consumption and no regen.

All of their range is terrible.

I was pointing out that the range advertised is not at 110km/hr and no EV will get advertised range at that speed.

Yeah, making your drive take 1.5 minutes longer is way worse than causing deaths by speeding

Tosser

It looks like we both should have googled. I'm reading 80-88kph is the most efficient for the average ICE car. But there are a lot of factors at play there. Regen is a huge factor and makes a world of difference in energy consumption. I've gone over a tall/long bridge and ended up on the other side with more range. Also, ICEs are just significantly less efficient in every way.

Yeah, some sources do state a higher speed. Not sure which one to believe really. Though I'm sure there's someone who's done a meticulous and detailed study out there somewhere. But as for EVs being more efficient than ICE... That gets rather complicated depending on how you define efficiency and where the electricity came from. Hell, many remote EV charging stations are just running off a massive diesel generator.

I meant the motors specifically. EVs turn a far higher percent of energy into motion. ICE cars are 20-40% efficient while EV cars are 80-90%. I know of some EV charging stations that have generator backups, but I'm unaware of any that are run completely off of a diesel generator.

Diesel powered EV charging stations reasonably are common in remote areas. I've seen them around here in Australia. There's not really any economic alternatives for some routes, without them they'd be untraversable by an EV. But that's just one particularly blatant example. Depending on where you live, in some places, plugging in your EV to charge at home would be even less efficient than that diesel generator. And I kinda get what you're saying, but it's very arbitrary. Why would you not include the entirety of the system when calculating efficiency?

I mean, if we're including the whole system than we'd need to include the energy involved in extracting oil, transporting oil, refining it into gas, and transporting the gas. But there's no efficiency standard in the world that takes that into account. Interestingly, eMPG (US) does include the energy production cost in calculations. EVs still come out ahead even though MPG doesn't include energy production costs.

If you think the posted speed is anything other than the maximum, YOU better hand in your license.

Please stay off the roads. You have No understanding of the law.

Errr... Which law? What on earth are you even talking about? Did you reply to the wrong person or something?

I’ve heard around 310-320 is about right for actual highway range on the Atto 3, sounds about right to me. If you’re speeding that’ll drop your your range too.

When they say how ks you get to a charge is no aircon no music no anything to be honest no passengers either and siting on the limit at all times,then you might get what they say but I don’t think so.they are designed for the city

He calls himself Bumskins, he probably has a mental age of 12 and drives a Ranger.

Thats all cars in general, not just EVs.

You realise it’s a speed limit don’t you? It’s not a suggested speed or a minimum

So many appliance motorists more concerned about range than actual driving awareness in this thread. I personally hate tailgaters particular rangee danger drivers. I drive using cruise control on my modern ice car. Considering EV but I know that just like my ice car mileage will change according to how hard I push the car and what else is running for comfort.

Or hire an ice for the Holiday and welcome to country trips

Happy to stir the pot. Well played.

I don't completely disagree with you. But your last point is absolutely untrue, noone gets a fine for doing 113 on your Speedo down a hill. Every car Speedo is undercooked for one thing and it's well confirmed cops give a tolerance unless you're really doing something stupid.

True my 5 year old Nissan loves 110km per hour and I almost double my mileage vs stop start

Licence*

Wow! Something from the Chinese government that doesn’t tell the truth? I don’t believe it … 🤦🏻‍♂️

The only situation I'd accept as believable where going 15kmh under the speed limit is a safety issue is if the person directly behind you is a roided up manchild. I'll agree is annoying as fuck but if you are driving in a reasonable manner, it's not a big enough speed difference to cause a hazard.

You'd have to be going significantly under the limit for a cop to even bother booking you for this.

The 480km would be for ideal conditions travelling to the most economical settings. You may be able to get the ideal settings from a dealer, online or in the manual. Just know that as soon as you use anything outside of those settings and if any road conditions change to what the manufacturer considers ideal then the range is going to suffer. Look at this as a positive, you know how far you can comfortably travel on a standard charge utilising your preferred settings. You’re good to go for your next trip.

You're an obstruction in the road that other drivers need to navigate around. Of course it's more dangerous than maintaining the flow of traffic.

It is also the suggested speed. Go take a driving test and see if you can pass if you're constantly failing to maintain the posted speed.

Fuckface

I am just annoyed they removed the charger at Australind, which was the lifeline for people driving south, now you have to go into Bunbury for the charge on short ranged vechicals. The longer range is the reason I went with the MG4 over the BYD Dolphin, so that I can make this trip if I need to.

Highway driving is the worst for an EV, high speeds and limited breaking so little regen . The range prediction is based on previous driving history so when you do something different its going to be wrong. Its a shame they dont offer a Highway driving prediction

Please don't go 105 in a 100 zone in any circumstances. You should always go 5km below the speed limit, they're a maximum and not a minimum. WA law allows up to 20km below but you should definitely stay between 10km and 0km below.

It's not the agreed speed, it's the legal maximum speed.

I will go somewhere between 90 and 100 and you can't stop me. If you can't handle that little 5km/h drop in speed and are only satisfied if you're deep-throating the speedlimit then that's a you problem.

Go for a driving test and continually fail to maintain the posted speed. You won't pass.

It's not just legal but also recommended. You're the ones putting yourself and others in danger.

You're allowed up to 10km/h below, and you only fail if you are more than 10km/h below for more than two blocks. If you speed for even one second you fail.

Consistent failure to keep up with the speed of traffic or failing to reach the speed limit when it is safe and appropriate to do so is classified as a "repeated driving error" or a "flow" fault. Accumulating four or more repeated errors during the test results in a fail.

"deep-throating the speedlimit" 🤣 That's an absolutely brilliant phrase! And no, I can't stop you, but me and everyone stuck behind you thinks you're a selfish ~~twat~~ bad driver. When everyone simply drives at the set speed, everything flows nicely and it's less of a hassle for everybody. You probably don't realize the hassle you're causing for everyone else because there's rarely anyone going slower than you. You have nice clear roads in front of you.

I did 7km/h below the speed limit for my entire test a few months back. I only got a single mark against me for missing an opportunity to turn right over two lanes. I was also told explicitly by my driving instructor that I can do up to 10km below the speed limit.

Look up "limit" in the dictionary If you have a pathological need to stick as close to the speed limit as possible, that's not healthy, especially when speedos aren't that accurate and drivers are taught to aim a few Km below the speed limit, especially at 100 - an error rate of +-10% or even 5% makes a big difference at 100 or 110

Any drivers who aren't as safe when someone is aiming 5 km/hr below the speed limit, even due to poor accuracy of speedos, are not safe enough to have a license

Humans aren't perfect. When everyone travels at the same speed, it is safer. That is indisputable.

[deleted]

It also gives you heaps of honked at.

Odo measures distance. You want a speedo. But only in the privacy of your own home.

I’ll do what my speedo says is thr maximum, i’m not calibrating it or pressing buttons to get where i think thr max speed is.

I have….its not a suggested speed at all, thats why its called a speed limit

Nah, if you can't navigate safely around a vehicle which is travelling within around 10% of your speed, you shouldn't be driving at all. Unless you can show any evidence to prove 15km under is dangerous in the same way that excessive speed and aggressive driving are proven to contribute to accidents, then i'm convinced you are quoting bullshit repeated ad nauseum by people who want an excuse to sit less than a car length behind other vehicles at highway speeds.

Obviously, drivers should be able to avoid it, just like they should be able to avoid almost all crashes. Obviously drivers having to overtake one another is going to increase risk. The road is safer when everyone just travels at the same speed and maintains the flow of traffic. This is indisputable.

Nobody travels the same speed though. Even under controlled conditions, people just can't maintain your perfect ideal of road conditions. Someone is always going a bit slower or faster than the vehicles around them. Your indisputable argument is only indisputable in your head because the real world just doesn't work that way.

Well obviously it's not going to be perfect but the less speed difference between the cars the better. Less overtaking and more time to plan and react.

Halfwit.

Cock head.

Speedos aren't that accurate but they are tested to be "not that accurate" below the indicated speed, very very very rarely will a speedo show a speed lower than what you're actually doing. So if someone always aims for 5 below the limit on their speedo it's not uncommon for them to actually be closer to 10 under the limit.

lol

Wind resistance is a killer

You need to put it in eco mode and drive 85-90km on highways to have the range and save power.

If you think, you better hand in your licence.

Shithead

Who determines whether people "can drive" or "can't drive"?

Imagine getting angry because you lose 2min of time before the next overtaking lane

spanker

I work on 3km per battery % on WA sw roads and it works pretty well. Running out at 310 sounds as expected. Doing 100 instead of 110 gets substantially better range. Rain and strong headwinds are the only things that have gotten me less than 3km per %. If your data subscription is still working the in car navigation actually does a pretty accurate range estimate though you need to set a destination and tap the vertical bar on the left to see it. Accurate to a couple of % for me though not as conservative as ABRP. What max speed do you have set in ABRP?

I think I think.